Who's got what?
- Thread starter imthatguy
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Fourth Protocol
Well-known member
Totes interested in responses here. Been interested in a printer for ages but held off because the affordable ones all seem (seemed) to have reliability issues. Haven't bothered looking at them for over a year and so suspect the reliability has improved.
Monomaker 3Plus .
Made by Wanhao I?ve had mine for a year, Trouble free. I?ve got octoprint, prefer to run mine manually, off the SD card
I have upgraded my fan and shroud as I run a micro Swiss hotend for flawless PETG. Forgot that I did the MOSFET mod the first week, and the PID tune helped out with that
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Made by Wanhao I?ve had mine for a year, Trouble free. I?ve got octoprint, prefer to run mine manually, off the SD card
I have upgraded my fan and shroud as I run a micro Swiss hotend for flawless PETG. Forgot that I did the MOSFET mod the first week, and the PID tune helped out with that
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imthatguy
Putting it in "H"
I'm finding that there's always something to tinker with. This is still very much art, and not so much science it seems. In fact, I was having an issue with prints just "pausing". Then my internal power supply died. Ask n00b, he's had a ton of issues with his first Tornado. So much so, that it got returned.
jsterrett78
New member
Monoprice Maker Select V2 (rebadged Wanhao i3)
Made the bad decision to buy a refurb, and it showed up with several issues. Once I got those fixed, it's ended up being a pretty good printer. Printed Z-brace mod, cooling fan mod, and a control box fan mod. Mosfet upgrade for heated bed. Upgraded bed support plate. Glass print bed.
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Made the bad decision to buy a refurb, and it showed up with several issues. Once I got those fixed, it's ended up being a pretty good printer. Printed Z-brace mod, cooling fan mod, and a control box fan mod. Mosfet upgrade for heated bed. Upgraded bed support plate. Glass print bed.
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skinanbones
I drank the MEK
I am running a Creality CR-10. I have had it almost 2 years now and so far it is still just about stock. I have done little printed upgrades like the x and y belt adjusters, the rear frame brace and the y axis motor brace. I have also put dampers on the x and y motors. The next upgrade that sitting and waiting is the gt2 belt with steel core, i have found that the stock belts have stretched close to an inch over time and i want to stop that.
imthatguy
Putting it in "H"
I know a couple guys with resin printers, and they mostly sit. Apparently dealing with the resin bath is a total pain in the butt. I'll take a traditional extrusion-style printer because I can fiddle with ABS, PLA, Wood, PETG, whatever.
pardonmyn00b
What the hell was that?!
Yes, my first Tornado was a hurricane of failure. Definitely something was wrong with its brain. It would randomly Y shift inches off target. Luckily I bought it on Amazon so the return/exchange was incredibly easy. My second one seems to be much happier (printing as we speak).
P&R RC Works
New member
I had two wanaho printers made good prints but the machine it?s self is garbage both are now down and keep frying the main board
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generis
Maybe take up knitting.
Several years ago Hobby King was selling a 'turnigy' brand printer, 150mm table cube, mostly enclosed, and arduino controls. For a small printer, it's got a nice feature list. I've learned to stop messing with my settings.... printing ONLY ABS on it since day 1. If the print sucked, it was historically a head clog or the thermistor line broken. That's the only issues I've ever had with it.
I did make a cardboard enclosure for it that looks like a church haha! The sides are covered in, and it's got a giant steeple on it to cover the overhead reel of material... this also keeps the material heated and dried actually. Works great! It's 40c inside after preheat.
I did make a cardboard enclosure for it that looks like a church haha! The sides are covered in, and it's got a giant steeple on it to cover the overhead reel of material... this also keeps the material heated and dried actually. Works great! It's 40c inside after preheat.
Anycubic 4max and so far it's been quite easy to operate, using a raspberry pi zero (everyone said the raspberry pi sucks with octoprint) and works quite smoothly. The customer service from anycubic is actually worth to mention, it is simply outstanding. The ultrabase is fantastic, I've never used masking tape or even hairspray to get better adhesion. While the bed is hot it's practically impossible to get the parts off but when it's cool, parts come out super easy. Spares are all over the web so it's not an issue to get them. In my personal experience I must add it's not so much about the printer (of course the build quality is important) but it's much more about finding the perfect settings and slicer software that can suit better your printer capabilities. If you design a crappy item and use a crappy slicer with the wrong settings there's no way a 3 thousand dollars printer can give you a perfect print.
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pigeonfarmboy
Supporting Member
I own an Afinia H800. I wanted a printer that would accel at printing ABS. Since it's all enclosed with a heated platform, I'm able to print large flat objects without warping or edges lifting (usually). What I hate about it is it has no way to detect if a clog occurs or if it runs out of filament. The amount of wasted filament caused by clogs over the years is absolutely ridiculous.
Form 2 is able to print some amazing detail but the entry cost and dollars to operate are quite high. I would just send files to Shapeways or Xometry for something that can't be done with an FDM at home.
If I was buying a machine now I would go one of two ways depending on budget; Creality CR10 or a Lulzbot Taz 6. All Taz 6 owners I know are super-happy with their purchase.
Reign in expectations when it comes to these tools. They are not magic boxes that just spit out perfect models every time.
Expect to have issues with whatever printer you get. I maintain large Stratasys and 3DS machines at work and they often have issues.
Don't cheap out on filament. Garbage filament usually yields poor results. I've had good success with Hatchbox and Octave filaments.
Form 2 is able to print some amazing detail but the entry cost and dollars to operate are quite high. I would just send files to Shapeways or Xometry for something that can't be done with an FDM at home.
If I was buying a machine now I would go one of two ways depending on budget; Creality CR10 or a Lulzbot Taz 6. All Taz 6 owners I know are super-happy with their purchase.
Reign in expectations when it comes to these tools. They are not magic boxes that just spit out perfect models every time.
Expect to have issues with whatever printer you get. I maintain large Stratasys and 3DS machines at work and they often have issues.
Don't cheap out on filament. Garbage filament usually yields poor results. I've had good success with Hatchbox and Octave filaments.
imthatguy
Putting it in "H"
THIS. I've discovered it to be more art than science, despite it being mostly science. No matter the bed levelling, filament, software, firmware, printer, sometimes it's just not going to print. And other times, the whole machine is defective! Ha!
I've got a Creality Ender 3, some tweak time and it prints absolutely great. I plan on ordering a 2nd one after the 1st of the year. I've been running eMachineshop with Cura and I print directly from the printer and it works great. I'd like to learn another program, since eMachineshop has had issues with some of what I have tried to do. The reason I haven't yet, is I love the eMachineshop interface.
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PendulumRC
Supporting Member
Subbing. Definitely want to get one soon. Creality Ender looks good for the price, have you guys had any issues with adjusting the bed, or it being warped at all? My budget is small, so an auto leveling feature is likely out.
The original bed mat warped a little over time, but I'm not using a glass bed and it prints so much better than before even. I just pulled some parts this morning and they don't even need smoothing to be honest.
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PendulumRC
Supporting Member
Cool, thanks! What type of material do you normally print with it?
Also, do you guys mind sharing how much you paid for the Ender? I see it on Amazon right now for $240. Found a new in box one locally on CL for $200.