Official Micro Shark Build Guide


Let me 3D print that...
Thank you for purchasing the Micro Shark by Mod19RC. This guide is intended to help you make an awesome micro crawler with ease, and to prevent you from potentially messing up your expensive new parts. Please post any questions you may have in this thread so they can be answered for others to see.

Required Parts:

1) Complete SCX24 (duh!) Either version!

2) Mod19RC Shapeways Parts
- Micro Shark Frame for SCX24
- Chassis Parts for Microshark Conversion (not optional!) Choose either Deadbolt or Jeep Wrangler JLU/C10 version of parts.
- Hood and Grille for Micro Shark (Type S or Type T)
- Roof + Rear Panel for Micro Shark
- Left Body Panel (Type S or Type T)
- Right Body Panel (Type S or Type T)
- Fuel Cell + Cooler Rear Cover for Micro Shark(optional)
- Seats for Micro Shark(optional)
- Dash for Micro Shark(optional)
- EMax ES08MAii Servo Mount for Micro Shark
- SCX24 Improved Steering Links (recommended)

3) M1.2x3 Flat Head Screws. Here is the best source that I have found. head shape and diameter are important, as that is what things were designed to. These require a 00 Phillips screwdriverto install. You need (32) of them, but order extra...they are small and elusive.

4) Servo The mount and chassis are designed to fit this servo.

5) Connectors/Leads to make battery wire extension.

6) 1mm Diameter Drill Bit. for cleaning out holes of 3D printed parts.

7) You may want to consider a set of Mil Stone Wideners if you plan on using the stock wheels and tires. They can be found on ebay and there is a set specific to the SCX24.

Note: As of 12/23/19 the Crossmember that the interior mounts to has been notched to clear the ECX Barrage Motor.


Start by inspecting all 3D printed parts making sure nothing is broken, missing, or printed incorrectly. If there are any issues with the parts as the were received, contact Shapeways Customer Support.


While you are inspecting the parts it may be a good time to get out that 1mm drill bit. You will want to clean out all the holes that screws get put into. Despite cleaning the residual powder from the parts during manufacturing, small holes tend to hang on to some of it. Blind holes are especially bad so be mindful of those. Leaving the powder stuck in there and trying to put a screw in is will likely lead to stripped screws, so be mindful.

If you are going to paint your frame (I suggest doing this since the dye won't hold up over time) now is the time to do that. I really like the Krylon Fusion All in One paint for this job. Paint it in three coats waiting about an hour between each coat. This helps it level out and remove some of the porosity in the printed part. The first coat is heavy and gets soaked up like a sponge. The next two coats are just even, regular coats. Just be mindful of runs. You can work with it after a day, but if you are patient and let it cure for a week, it will be rock hard and very durable.


Let me 3D print that...
SCX24 Prep:

Prepare the SCX24 by stripping the chassis completely down with the following components remaining: Chassis rails, center skid, transmission, and motor.


The SCX24 uses metric M1.4 screws throughout and has the following common lengths: 5mm, 8mm, and 10mm. This build uses the 5mm length screws for all assembly. When doing the assembly be careful not to overtighten the screws. They are tiny screws going into plastic, and while they hold well they can strip out easily. There are a lot of attachment points, so having them all super tight isn't necessary.

Frame Assembly:

Start by separating all the chassis components using flush cutters, being sure to remove all the sprues from each part. Use a sharpie pen to blacken the exposed spots from where the sprues attached.


Install the battery strap into the front battery tray and then install the battery tray into the front chassis rails using two 5mm long screws.


Next install the rear electronics tray. The frame rails should sit slightly above the tray, and the esc/rx fits in between. Secure with two 5mm screws in the locations shown.


Put the center interior support crossmember in place behind the motor in the correct orientation but don't install the screws yet.


Make sure there is no double sided tape residue on the bottom of the esc/rx and place it in the tray pushed all the way forward to the stop. The plug pins should be facing forward. Temporarily hold it in place with tape or zip ties. You want to hold down the wires into the stepped portion of the ESC/RX so they do not interfere with the frame. Avoid covering up the other set of holes on the frame rails.


Next install the grille for whichever body style you are using. The Type-T grill will be in two pieces to aid in assembly. Use a 5mm long screw to hold it together once inserted into the frame rails. Use two 5mm screws to attach the grille to the frame.



Before installing the frame onto the chassis rails remove the (4) screws holding the center skid in place. These will get re-installed once the frame is in place.


Now it is time to assemble the frame with the chassis rails. Start by slipping the frame rails in between the frame parts at the front.Push it as far back as possible so that the holes are nearly aligned.


From there start working the frame the rest of the way onto the chassis rails. Nothing should need to be forced along the way. Make sure the rear crossmember at the base of the rear shock towers goes over the ESC/RX unit. Once you get to the very back of the frame rails, a small amount of pressure will be needed to get the rear mounts to fit into the frame rail pockets. It should cleanly snap into place, and all the holes should line up.


Remove the tape or zip ties used to hold the ESC/RX temporarily. It is now fully contained within the frame rails and will not come out.


Next install (8) 5mm long screws on each side. Pay attention that they are lining up correctly and the threads are engaging properly. Make sure that the plastic parts are seated all the way and snug all the screws. No need to over tighten them.


The interior crossmember may have fallen out during the assembly process. Make sure to put it in correctly and make sure the motor wires are routed correctly. If using the ECX Barrage motor the lower lead will need to go under the crossmember.


Chassis assembly is complete!


Let me 3D print that...

You will need to create a battery wire extension using the connectors previously shown. The extension should measure between 5" and 5.5" in length.


Plug the extension wire into the ESC/RX unit. Route the wire alongside the motor leads under the tube holding down the ESC/RX. Then route the wires through the interior alongside the motor. Tabs for using zip ties are provided if you like to be neat about wiring. Be sure to use the smallest zip ties you can find and orient them as shown or they may interfere with the seats when installed.



Next, route the servo lead under the battery tray and along the driver's side frame rail. Plug it into the ESC/RX correctly. Secure it in place with zip ties if desired being sure to orient the wire and the zip tie shown in the pic.


Make sure the the servo wire isn't twisted where from where it is zip tied to the frame. Route the wire up the underside of the battery tray and install it between the hold downs on the battery tray. You may need to use a small, dull tool to help work the wires into place. Be careful not to damage the wire insulation or break the tabs.


The chassis is now completely wired!



Let me 3D print that...
Rear Suspension:

Installing the rear suspension is pretty straightforward. It all screws in place the same way it came off the stock chassis. If starting with the Jeep Wrangler JLU version, you will need to transfer the pivot balls from the stock rear suspension links to the new, longer 3D printed links. See below for pivot ball removal tips.


There are three holes on the rear shock towers. The bottom two are to be used with the stock shocks depending on the ride height you want. The upper hole is intended for longer aftermarket shocks.


Front Suspension:

The front suspension undergoes some changes from the stock deadbolt. It gets lengthened 10mm using the longer links and driveshaft parts included with the truck. A longer upper Y link is provided in the chassis parts also. If starting with the Jeep Wrangler JLU, it is not necessary to change the upper Y link or the lower links. They are the correct length from the factory.


You will need to transfer the pivot balls from the shorter links to the longer ones. I like to use my M1.3 allen tool to push them out. You will notice that they move to one side of the link more than the other. If you push them out on that side it is easier.


The deadbolt should come with an extra medium length driveshaft tube. You will need to carefully separate the shorter tube from the u-joint and join it back up with the medium length tube. On the Jeep Wrangler JLU version you will need to swap out the rear drive shaft tube for the longer one that is included from Axial.


Now we need to do some cutting. Remove about 2mm from the end of the splined section of the driveshaft. Otherwise it will bottom out in the splines of the tube causing the suspension to bind. The tube assembly will need to be cut to an overall length of about 31mm. Be sure to clean up the inside portion of the splines and check for free movement. **Skip this step if starting with the Jeep Wrangler JLU**


Pre-assemble all the front end components as shown prior to installing into the chassis. Install the driveshaft tube into the transmission output as well.


Install the front suspension assembly into the chassis. When tightening the upper link screws make sure to loosen them slightly so that the upper arm moves freely.


The front shock tower is the same as the rear. Three mounting holes, with the bottom two meant to be used with the stock shocks. If you use the middle hole you will lose a small amount of up travel in the front, but will maintain full articulation.



Let me 3D print that...
Front Servo:

Prep the servo by trimming the upper part of the tabs as shown. This will keep the servo from contacting the chassis rails at full articulation.


Install the servo onto the mount. You will need to modify the servo horn by removing material up to and including the bottom hole. Use a 1.2mm drill to enlarge the hole and thread in the stock ball end. Snap it onto the steering linkage and install it on the servo.


Neatly tie up the wiring above the servo with a zip tie. Make sure that the suspension moves freely with no binding caused by the wiring.


Interior Assembly:

It is a bit of a puzzle, but the interior fits without any issues. The seats go in first. Insert them through the passenger side in the sequence shown. They shouldn't need to be forced. Just gently move them around until they fit through.




The dash is similar in that you have to do a few twists and turns to get it inside, but it is easy and straightforward. Just follow the sequence. You will need to flex it slightly to get it over the steering servo plug, but it will go.



A single 5mm long screw holds the interior in place.


Make sure that the wiring is not interfering with the seats and preventing them from sitting on the frame rails properly.



Congrats! You now have a finished Micro Shark Slider!



Let me 3D print that...

Insert the battery into the tray as shown, and secure it with the velcro strap. Plug it in to the extension cable.


Now is a good time to give everything a test before final assembly. Make sure the motor runs in the right direction, you get full forward and reverse, and that there are no issues with the steering.

Final Assembly:

Insert the rear fuel cell + cooler cover in the rear compartment. Don't force anything to fit, but make sure it is seated completely. Secure it with two 5mm long screws.


I hope you have good eyesight and like tiny screws, because we are about to install 32 of them. If you are older (like me) you might want a pair of magnifying lenses to make things easier. Use a 00 Phillips screw driver for these screws.


I usually start with the roof and rear panel. Pay careful attention when installing the screws. You want them to be screwed all the way in, but do not over tighten them. Getting them too tight could cause the panel to deform or split at the edge. Being able to see well helps a bunch here. The roof has (6) screws and the rear panel uses (4).


Install the side panels next. They each have (11) screws.


Finally! Install the hood by inserting the rear at the base of the cowl and snapping it down in the front. Make sure the hood is aligned and seated well in the back before snapping it closed. Install your wheels and tires to complete your assembly of the Micro Shark!


A special note about the Micro Shark. It was designed to be a scale rock buggy. It isn't a bouncer, Ultra 4 runner, cliff diver, or full send type of truck. It will handle rock crawling duties like a champ, but you risk damage with heavy abuse and big falls. Just a word of caution so you can enjoy your Micro Shark for a long time. Thanks for purchasing and building the Mod19RC Micro Shark.
Like I said on instagram- not even remotely interested in the SCX-24 until this showed up, now I'm definitely considering one. Great work Jeff!!


Let me 3D print that...
Much appreciated. It has been a fun project. I've received several responses similar to yours. Cool to see that it is generated more interest in the SCX24.


Let me 3D print that...
Thread updated to include instructions on working with the Jeep Wrangler JLU version of the SCX24.