Bronco OBS mash-up

Itruckhard

Active member
https://flic.kr/p/2piEG9D https://flic.kr/p/2piLinW https://flic.kr/p/2piLimt https://flic.kr/p/2piMHzo https://flic.kr/p/2piLTBU
Driveline: AX-10 style 3 gear metal transmission. Yota2 Axles and transfer case.
Power: BL120 V2 w Surpass 1900Kv 3674
2S to 4S.
Suspension: 4 wheel leafs. With bushings made from silicone 12g wire sheethe.
Steering: Behind the axle. Front bar also. To connect both parts of the knuckle to tighten up the steering.
Servo: 25kg dudu brand.
Chassis: 6 feet of aluminum. Abs side skirts. A few pieces of steel.
Tires: 5.5" Super Swamper knock offs. On jungle rims.

I'm waiting for my 8x8 parts. And just had a lot of this stuff here. Thought I'd slap it together for a Bronco Mud truck. Since. I have a problem.
Wanted to use the AX10 transmission with the 1.46:1 case to give me really low gearing. The truck let's you move the battery back and forth. For stability. It's just tucking. And is pretty much a Florida mud and swamp truck. With some trail ability. Thinking black or brown paint. Have some felt floor liner I might use. It's quite light compared to other trucks.
Not sure how to finish mounting the body. And the transfer case won't get here for awhile. So I can't finalize the assembly. Just want to practice a build before the longer more complex one. Assembling the leafs with more tension or less tension gives you a dynamic. And you can add or remove from the stack. Not sure if I'll do dampers.
Want it to wheelie on mud but not back flip. And when the season is good I hope to have a good fleet of trucks to bring out. Once I get better at building I might do a more premium build on nice axles. One that won't get bashed senseless. I have some monster truck tires I want to use. They're about 8" tall and 4" wide. So I'm looking for axles to fit. 15" metal hexes. So that's for a Bigfoot 1. Or maybe a Digger.
 

Kear

Bleb
https://flic.kr/p/2pjrjNn https://flic.kr/p/2pjw27u
Decided to build some styrene stuff. To get ready to build a DAF or MAN or Tatra or Sisu.
Ordered couple dozen sheets of varying sizes. Start building more from scratch. Need files and a jeweleers saw. Some Dremel bits. Etc. Would really like cast iron axle housings that slowly rust.

A neat looking cab for the 8x8 could be a HEMTT, basic sure but lots of potental for mods, or even just getting replaced with a more complex cab later.

The Styrene work here looks good, better than my starting work for sure!
 

Itruckhard

Active member
Thanks. I just wanted to use what I has to support the lexan. But I decided to keep going. Realized I should get some MEK. Some files. Some round rod. Better blades. Keep cuts more precise. Cyanoacrylate isn't exactly the easiest to use. And I spilled a bunch...

https://flic.kr/p/2pjMebJ
 

Itruckhard

Active member
https://flic.kr/p/2pkrQin https://flic.kr/p/2pku5sK https://flic.kr/p/2pkn8ap
The fit is so snug the paint made a difference. Those batteries can come out. But it takes some doing. They're going to be charged in place. The second battery will be hidden with some carpet once I find the right seats. Dollhouse sofa would fit as a bench seat. But can't find the right one. Might have to make seats. The rest of the parts are so slow to arrive. The carpeting worked out pretty well. Next time I'll recess the battery tray. And make a cover. I want to replace the lexan one panel at a time with styrene eventually as it breaks. I think for my 8x8 I will use square tube and more precise pieces before I start assembly. And use MEK
 

Itruckhard

Active member
One is a fire risk, the other is also a fire risk. reject LiPO, embrace NiMh.
I just charge everything on a metal tool box near a window. If something goes wrong. Throw it away. Or just build a new house. Whatever. Frankly an Amazon battery burning down my house would be a lottery. I do have a bucket of water with a bunch of dead lipos I've shot with my crossbow. I don't risk them. When they show weakness. Destroy them.
A fire extinguisher won't work. But have one anyway. A bucket of water. That works. Have one nearby for charging if you can.
 

Kear

Bleb
I just charge everything on a metal tool box near a window. If something goes wrong. Throw it away. Or just build a new house. Whatever. Frankly an Amazon battery burning down my house would be a lottery. I do have a bucket of water with a bunch of dead lipos I've shot with my crossbow. I don't risk them. When they show weakness. Destroy them.
A fire extinguisher won't work. But have one anyway. A bucket of water. That works. Have one nearby for charging if you can.

The only non integrated LiPOs I have are for my 1/18 scale rigs, my 1/10 rigs all use Nickle Metal counter weights. I mean batteries-
 

Itruckhard

Active member
The only non integrated LiPOs I have are for my 1/18 scale rigs, my 1/10 rigs all use Nickle Metal counter weights. I mean batteries-
They all can come out. It's just harder than velcro. But I have like 40 Lipos in a metal tool box. The only ones I've ever puffed are the old blue Turnigy. I don't do the NimH anymore. The plan for the build is friction fit batteries and body that come off as needed. And easily accessible hardware. So if you in theory were racing. And piece that breaks can be replaced with 4 screws or less. You could shake the truck and tumble it down a hill the batteries won't come out. But if you grab them you can get them out. On the plus side. Just finished my hardwire retrofit on my smoke detectors.
 

Kear

Bleb
Ah good, I have seen a few people literally build the battery permanently into a vehicle, so long as it can be removed, that's just fine.
 

Itruckhard

Active member
Ah good, I have seen a few people literally build the battery permanently into a vehicle, so long as it can be removed, that's just fine.
Oh no. All my builds leave access to the batteries. And I make sure to make them serviceable. Drilling access holes for tools to get in and stuff. Plus this truck is literally made from old blinds, coat hangers and air conditioner window adaptors. Esc is the most expensive part. It's just a practice build for the 8x8. It's going to get driven by some kids and they will probably wreck it pretty hard.
 

Itruckhard

Active member
https://flic.kr/p/2pmQuFr Slipper was loose. Glad I made it serviceable. 2 screws. Undo the cover. Tighten it up. And it runs great. It has a good 4 wheel torque bounce to it. Pretty sure it will eat the front cups and axles. I have a spare set... but I think after the 8x8 is done I might toss some CVDs into it.
I did shin myself really good. It was a lot like taking a bike pedal as a kid. One of the mean spikey ones. The truck might even work well with a trail setup. The suspension is solid with the shocks and leafs. The bushings help. It's an easy wheel stander. The body is as snug as a shoe 1 size too small. So no clips of anything. Batteries don't budge when bouncing. Next truck will be more trail specific. This truck can also be converted to dual motor for 12 bucks. So maybe dual brushed.
This is like a big block on a blower. With surge. Might go kill some grass with it.

As it sits. BL120 G2 w/ 3674 1900KV Surpass.
25 kilo Servo.
2X 2S 5200 Mah Zee lipos in series.
Flysky 3 channel.
Injora AX10 style transmission
RC4WD Yota2 axles
RC4WD drop transfer case
Hobbypark axles.
Cheap leaf spring kit
Cheap shocks with inner springs.
 
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