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Thread: First build. Toyota SR5

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
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    61

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    I made a new front bumper. It is made from aluminum rod. The plastic one has a winch mount. I don’t have a winch and it sticks out further than I would like. This is out as far as it goes and has another set of mounting holes if I want to move it in. It should help with the approach angles


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  2. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
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    61

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    Took the truck out every day for an hour in the woods. Today I had a thing that tracks distance and I covered two miles. So that’s about ten miles this week!


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  3. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    61

    Default First build. Toyota SR5

    I thought I would make a rundown list of my trucks parts and what it cost to play this trail running game.

    I started with the Injora scx10-ii clone. It’s $100.00 dollars and seems like a pretty good deal. I was going to get the Raw builders kit but it’s $200.00 and I planned to replace everything anyhow.

    I added the proline Toyota body with black paint
    Then added a hobbywing 1080 ESC.
    I bought a 5000 milliamp 2 cell battery.
    Then a Specktrum dx5 Rugged with rx. I have a bunch of good servos lying around so that was free.

    That got it running. Total cost was $450.00 radio,chassis, ESC, servo and body.

    Then I replaced the shock mounts front and rear with aluminum. And added inner fenders. That added about $100 bucks

    Then I bought an all metal trans for $41.00 and one of the drive shafts would not come off the original trans. So rather than fight it I bought a $24.00 set of nice aluminum drive shafts. And a set of titanium steering links.

    The next thing I did was make front and rear bumpers and a roll bar. So there’s another 100 bucks and it is sorta finished with a total cost of maybe $650.00

    Now I’m just being stupid but I wanted heavier wheels and better tires. So $30.00 bucks for four steel wheels and $60.00 for a set of proline hyrax 1.9 tires with predator compound. And a set of four Desert lizard 90mm shock plus some oil round it up to another $150.00 dollars. Making it 800.00.

    Next I ordered a set of metal portal axles for 140 bucks. And I plan to get a 3cell battery for some rock crawling. That should round out the total to a wopping $ 1000.00 bucks. And I still will need a better motor after the original bites the dust.

    That was over about three months and the radio is sorta separate but still, it’s a grand to play in the woods. I can’t afford to get anything else for a while so I’m pretty happy with this. It’s fun to play with and great exercise walking in the woods. I can drive it year round so unlike my airplanes I can use it over the long Iowa winter.


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  4. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    170

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    when you have some extra cash maybe time to start messing around with some styrene

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    61

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    Ya I want to build a rear cab. So that would be a good time to start down that road.


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  6. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    170

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    most styrene is only a few bucks for a sheet, id follow the lines of your current body and mod as you see fit

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    61

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    I’m kinda torn. I like the roll bar. But the truck I had was always with a cab. I am kinda wanting a truggy. So I don’t know. Maybe build a rear cap for this one a then start over with a class 3 truck when I get some money together. That will take a little while. So I have time to start with the styrene.


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  8. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    170

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    if i've learned anything from this forum its that styrene builds can take a eternity if needed i would start with something "basic" like a carbon copy of that body you already have and details are buyable and or makeable, its harder to make a rear cage behind the cab look scale then a bed because bed's have exact dimensions to scale down.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    29

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lordwayback View Post
    if i've learned anything from this forum its that styrene builds can take a eternity if needed i would start with something "basic" like a carbon copy of that body you already have and details are buyable and or makeable, its harder to make a rear cage behind the cab look scale then a bed because bed's have exact dimensions to scale down.
    I don't think i would start with something as big as a body. To make a body look right it takes lots of practice. zA body would be the last thing I'd recommend. I'd start with something small like a cooler orsome seats. Then maybe make a canopy for the back of the SR5. I wouldn't recommend building a body until you are very comfortable with styrene building. That's just my opinion though.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    170

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    its pretty true, i learned my styrene on a body it was a lightly detailed grave digger the trick was the vinyl wrap

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