sbg  

LockedUp RC
Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 49

Thread: antigacho custom UNIMOG / multibrand creation

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    62

    Default

    During this week I finished the modifications to the powershift RC NR TANK D.M.S UNIT

    I lost the 3d printed tank regulator so I carved a new one using plastic residues from axial parts tree

    I also installed an xt60 plug instead of magnets who tends to fail

    After painting I printed the "powertank" logo and "gauge face" in a regular paper sheet, then I cover it using transparent Scotch tape and paste it to the tank, then I apply a layer of silicone conformal coating to protect my improvised stickers



    Actually I am dealing with the build of the transmission/motor cover, I'm using styrene, of course, my building skills are very poor but I will try to do my best, I am planning to include a couple of decorative radiator fans




    By the way, I just received my new 3d printer, (ender 3 pro) I have to assemble it and figure out how it works but that will open my possibilities for custom builds

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    83

    Default

    What an ultimate build. Thankyou for sharing it along the way.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    62

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Harold996tt View Post
    What an ultimate build. Thankyou for sharing it along the way.
    Thanks for the comment. I'm part of the "slow builders guild" community this project is taking a lot of time but I am happy with the results

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    62

    Default

    goddamned

    another problem to face on this build


    After my failed attempt trying to install this wheels ( TEAM DC ARMORY VERSION BEADLOCK DC-50973


    I finally receive what it looks like the perfect wheel for this project
    D1RC 1.9 Beadlock Wheel Rim


    Unfortunately, I have fitting problems again

    1st. the hole where the axle shaft is inserted in the hub is too narrow, that had an easy solution just make a wider hole, Dremel tool, and round lime solve the problem

    2nd, once again I noticed that the Beadlock back ring hasn't enough clearance so the wheel is rubbing with the portal axles so the wheel spin is blocked

    I Just need 1mm or so inside the Beadlock rim to clear the VP portal axles so I am planning to sand the inner ring and the portal axle end to have enough clearance. lets do that

    First sand the inner Beadlock ring, I hope that this doesn't affect too much the durability I'm afraid that after this sanding the inner ring will lose resistance and tend to fail, I will take the risk, I really like how these wheels look on my rig,



    Then some sanding to polish the inner ring, my electric drill will be useful for that



    After this modification now I have the desired small gap between the Beadlock ring and the portal axle



    Now I have to decide which tires look better



    May be I going to keep the klr/m tires by now,

    anyway im going to order new wheels to mount the RCW4 mud bashers I found this gmade beadlocks that also match well with the style of my unimog project 20 usd per pair at amazon mexico is a fair price in my opinion


  5. #35
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Blind bay BC
    Posts
    3,189

    Default

    This is one very fine build. I was just reading through it. Some fine work. The metal work is great. Can't wait to see it when you get it all finished up.
    Last edited by Wrencher; 03-06-2020 at 11:18 PM.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    62

    Default

    Styrene building is the most difficult task in this building. Before this, all was just putting parts together
    compared to the art pieces posted on this forum my scratch building attempt will be awful

    I have seen the work of other builders in this forum, true artist (Fourth Protocol, cooper, dagabba klako, Wrencher, etc), but that is not my case my skills working with styrene are as bad as my English language skills, sorry

    It takes me the whole week to build the transmission/motor cover and still need a lot of sanding

    I forgot to take photos to follow this but I have some















    The symmetry is not perfect, I notice a small offset in some corners and angles but that is barely noticeable, and the cover sits well over the transmission. Mounting and painting in progress, more updates soon

    After finishing the rear styrene parts I am going to continue with the cab modifications to install the front spotlight and 2d interior

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    1,234

    Default

    Looking good, going to be a very cool Mog!

    All comes with practice- which I need much more of!

    Also it's good to remember if there's anything you're unhappy with it's very easy to pull one face off and have another go. I pulled lots of stuff apart on the Axor and would have done much more if there wasn't the time pressure!

    Edit: I'm not saying you need to- I think it looks awesome, nice touches with the fan, cooling fins, etc too.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    62

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dagabba View Post
    Looking good, going to be a very cool Mog!

    All comes with practice- which I need much more of!

    Also it's good to remember if there's anything you're unhappy with it's very easy to pull one face off and have another go. I pulled lots of stuff apart on the Axor and would have done much more if there wasn't the time pressure!

    Edit: I'm not saying you need to- I think it looks awesome, nice touches with the fan, cooling fins, etc too.
    Thanks for your words,

    certainly, I have to practice a lot and learn from the masters on this forum

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    62

    Default

    I finally finished the build of the transmission cover, it takes me around two weeks from taking measures to paint the styrene part. (proudly member of slow builders guild club)

    I am not using styrene bondene Cement, instead of that I'm just using CA glue and epoxy glue (pegatanke) to reinforce the joints from inside

    I included an exhaust to complete the cover, I found a little plastic bottle that would be helpful for this



    after some modifications I got this:





    and this is how it looks after painting and weathering

    I am also using the Yeah Racing 1/10 Crawler Steel Diamond Plate for lateral plates







    Some decals strategically placed for styling and attitude including the "Europa truck trial" logo that I printed for this project



    As a final touch for this styrene transmission cover, I decided to include an additional feature. I had on my spare parts box a small voltage meter that was intended to be installed as part of the cab interior, but I change my mind and decide to mount it inside the transmission cover, I can read the screen through the ventilation fins



    Not perfect but not so bad, I definitely need to watch more painting tutorials on youtube and of course more practice

    I just need to fix the cover to the lateral plates using some screws

    I also build and internal metal cage for the cab. this will help to mount the MyTrickRC High Power Spotlights, This also will help to reinforce the cab structure who was broken due to the stupid accident that I mentioned previously.



    After building the metal internal cage I glue it using pegatanke, I really like this product, this is an epoxy glue that I found it at a local hardware store, very useful for this hobby






    For the next post will show you how I am building the interior I don't have space to build full interior but the torso interior will be enough

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    62

    Default

    The cab interior is finally done

    This is the real Unimog cab that I am trying to replicate



    I don't have space to build a full interior but torso interior will be enough for my project

    I found this "Ugamug" build created by Jonnie Fraz at RCC forum



    That is the perfect example of what I want to do for my Unimog

    I don't have enough experience working with styrene so I just going to follow my craft instinct.

    First I take a lot of measures to create a base that fits inside the cab



    Then I build a basic dashboard and reinforce the joints using pegatanke black epoxy glue, this is a great product, it has been really helpful during this build, I really recommend it



    The central piece (cover) was really difficult to build, it is made of 7 different small styrene parts, again I am using epoxy glue to reinforce the joints



    After adding some extra details is time to paint



    Weathering is important I just wish I could have the talent of some artists around this forum



    The whole process takes me two weeks, this is the final result







    finally, some information about the parts

    driver: McFarlane Toys Call of Duty Soap Action Figure
    steering wheel: Metal Steering Wheel For Axial Wraith
    seats: Axial Corbeau LG1 Seat Set

    I almost finish this project, I just have drill some holes to hold the cab and the trasmission cover in place
    and of course paint the body that will be the next update on this thread

Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •