Custom links

[PapaGuido]

Hey Peoples,

Hoping someone can answer a question for me. I'm looking to make some custom links for my TRX4 and was going to follow Harley Designs (Josh's) tutorial. I'm going to use the 3rd method of all one piece rods, turning down the diameter of the rod until I can cut the threads.

I was unable to find 3/16th stainless rod. I could only find regular steel and brass. I almost bought the steel but though I might have some rusting issues. so I bought the brass instead.

Do you think the brass will be strong enough?

Thanks,
Guy

I just drive the truck.

[imthatguy]

Brass should be fine, though I wouldn't have chosen that material. It's softer than steel, so it's easier to work with, but ultimately will probably bend easier too.

[PapaGuido]

Brass should be fine, though I wouldn't have chosen that material. It's softer than steel, so it's easier to work with, but ultimately will probably bend easier too.

I figured that as well but I'm not bashing this thing.. figured I have enough to make a few sets so if it bends I can make more.. figured the brass was better for corrosion resistance though

I just drive the truck.

[PapaGuido]

Another question...

When cutting the threads on the rods I should be using 8/32 UNC?

I just drive the truck.

[Jammer]

Using threaded rod of your choice would work. Get the coated brake line and cut that to length per measurements in the parts manual. Thread your ends on till it touches the brake line. You could cut the brake Line and threaded rod to shorten or extend your wheel base.

[Superglue]

I?m not a fan of using threaded rod or brass, they are both far to soft. Stainless is very difficult to tap threads on, like it?s crazy hard. Near impossible. Most of the time I?d manage to get one end of the link done then break the other side. Due to that I just make my own links using regular steel. My Chevy has been on the same links for a year and a half or longer and has very minimal rusting. Also you can just buy some paint in a bottle and touch it up to the color of your liking. I personally don?t try to mill down the end of the rod either, it?s to hard to make it even, and if you have a high spot it?ll catch in the tap and break it off at the step down, so instead I begin with a 12/32 then tap to a 10/32 then tap to a 8/32. It?s much easier in my opinion, but you have to make sure that you tap really slowly. I do a full turn back for every 1/4 turn forward.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Caprinut]

I have used 4mm brass rods on my Hot Rod build at the rear.
Super easy to tap.
I used Revo rod ends.
Sleeved them with 5x4mm brass tube and there has been not a slightest of bend and the rear links are super long since my rig has 342mm wheelbase.

Downside they tend to be really heavy.

I have also been running both M3 and M4 allthread in the past, all of them being sleeved.
Have bent a couple of the M3 ones, but never M4 ones.
The rod ends goes way before the allthread.

These days I'm running carbon links.
Revo rod ends, M4 set screws that are epoxy'd into 6x4mm carbon tubes.
Non of those have failed me yet.

Also for all my links I build a jig using a piece of wood, tap the eye to eye measurements for M3 and using M3 set screws into the wood. That ensures the links are of equal length. As long as they slides easy onto the set screws you have the perfect length.

[JMo]

I'm all for fabrication, but really, why would you not just buy a set of 6mm aluminium rods in different lengths (such as these on ebay for example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alloy-Metal...item523d829997), M3 set screws and rod-ends, and assemble them to the length/s you want?