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Thread: 2WD HiLux Step-side Dually - aka. Cilla G.

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Texas, USA
    Posts
    27

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    I like your build threads because you cover the minute details. I'm more of a rookie who is here to learn and so many of the cool build threads here just gloss over the fine details that, as a rookie, I need a little spoon feeding with. I can't necessarily readily ID parts from pictures since I have only built a small number of trucks. Great stuff. I hope you continue to post all of your work in the future. I think there a lot of guys here like me who read but don't post a whole lot of out respect for the masters who show their work on this board.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    193

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shady Rascal View Post
    I like your build threads because you cover the minute details. I'm more of a rookie who is here to learn and so many of the cool build threads here just gloss over the fine details that, as a rookie, I need a little spoon feeding with. I can't necessarily readily ID parts from pictures since I have only built a small number of trucks. Great stuff. I hope you continue to post all of your work in the future. I think there a lot of guys here like me who read but don't post a whole lot of out respect for the masters who show their work on this board.
    Thank you for your kind words Shady!

    Yes, I did wonder if I would be teaching some people on here how to suck eggs with some of my explanations, since there are some exceptionally talented and hugely experienced builders/builds on the SBG of course... but like you say, with something like this, it's still always good to go into detail with regard to techniques and suggestions, as there are plenty of people looking for inspiration too.

    Over the years I've picked up a few hints and tips from other forums, and also worked out things myself which I then realise other people have also done something similar using the same (or at least very similar) method, so hopefully cataloguing those techniques in detail will help anyone looking to achieve a similar result - if not immediately, then at least in part adding to the huge archive here on the SBG.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    193

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    A couple more mods to the interior before I can prime that too:


    photo. this truck is technically 37 years old now... so of course the driver's seat would be a bit saggy!




    photo. similarly the backrest of the seat also needed a little wear and tear - although I had to remove the ribs from the back/inside so I could heat the plastic and bend it (with my thumbs) in the same way.



    The bonnet and the rear bed had their top-coat this morning - the trick is to choose a nice rich colour so you only need a light coat or two - making it much easier to wash off the salt afterwards:


    photo. The top coat is an ultra flat 'Military' Tamiya colour AS-19 (Intermediate Blue/US Navy) which is very effective, since the aged and worn body means the original paint would have started to dull and go thin anyway.




    photo. Salt washed off, and a fresh coating of rust Activator solution applied... hopefully a couple more applications and the real rust ought to be showing by the end of the afternoon.

    Once the natural rust has matured, I'll add the final dry-brush weathering and then seal it with some flat clear lacquer.

    Cabin next!

    More soon...

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    193

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    Cabin fever!

    Ok, now the difficult part... as I've hinted a couple of times above, my colour scheme [and overall look] for this build is essentially a twist on a project I built a while ago for a Tamiya[Club] competition, which was a homage to the Cars movie Tow Mater:



    At the time of that build, it was my most elaborate paint-job to date, although with this HiLux version, there is even more detailing to consider - not least the added 'real rust' and a full interior to paint and distress.

    Since (like Mater) the doors of this build are not removable, it means I need to mask the cabin twice to achieve the two-tone effect:



    Because it will be easier to mask the smaller door panels before I paint the final 'main' body colour, it makes sense to rust/weather these first and paint the top coat - then let it dry throughly while I rust the main body, prior to masking the doors and finally adding the blue to the wings and roof.


    photo. salt added where I want the rust and corrosion to show through the top coat. note inside of the windows also masked to prevent any colour bleed to the interior.


    note. As I've continued to utilise the Modern Masters Iron paint and Activator solution on the previous body panels, I've found the best/quickest result is to paint the Iron paint on those areas I want intense rust, let it dry thoroughly (a few hours), then brush over those areas with a coating of the Activator solution. Leaving it overnight, already the process is beginning to develop - I then spray the body with water and add the salt, let the excess water dry off and then paint the top coat.

    Once the top coat has dried, washing off the salt also seems to take the 'gloss' off the paint with the Iron filings in, meaning that once you re-apply the Activator solution, the rust comes back more quickly and more intense than before too. A couple of applications of Activator a couple of hours apart and the rust is pretty much as intense as you'd want a build like this I feel.



    Interior panels...

    While I'm watching the proverbial and literal paint dry, I've elected to juggle a few more of the parts which require painting - in this instance the interior will be a dull yellow/faded mustard colour(Tamiya TS-3),and the plan is to contrast this [slightly] with tan flocking on the seat faces and door panel trims.


    photo. door speakers and handle recesses masked, as these ought to remain black plastic of course.

    The interior kit I bought (from RC4WD) comes with a number of metal details, including vent covers, dash inserts, and even door handles and infill panels for the steering wheel spokes! It also includes many plastic dash details such as heater vent knobs, column stalks, window winders, armrests and of course a pair of shift levers.

    I have to say, while this interior kit was relatively expensive ($37.99), the level of detail really is, well, 'next level' as it were... Part of me would perhaps to have liked to incorporate the AMPro Eng. illuminated dash panel (which could always be retro-fitted I'm sure), but as an overall interior, this off-the-shelf solution really is superb. Of course it's going to take all my patience and dexterity to really do all the tiny details justice!

    More soon!

  5. #35

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    You sir are a true artist! I will continue to watch with a slight big of drool!

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    119

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    Awesome thread!

    I plan on using the same chassis to upgrade the swiss cheese scx10 chassis I currently run on my Rod.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    It no longer exists.
    Posts
    11,733

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    Lovely job so far. TOMATA is not a combination I had considered for the tailgate, but I very much enjoy it. Keep it up!
    SBG OWNER YOUTUBE AXIAL AMBASSADOR GCM TEAM DRIVER VANQUISH KNIGHT CUSTOMS TEAM

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    193

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    Thank you for your kind words everyone, and apologies for the slight gap in the proceedings as I was on holiday last week... but fortunately that coincided with getting the first colour coat of paint on the body [the doors], leaving plenty of time for it to cure before masking for the second colour.:


    photo. doors in contrasting 'mint' green - Tamiya AS-29, another one of the military (aircraft) colours in flat-matt finish.

    You can see above how the salt was used to mask those areas I wanted the rust and red-oxide primer to show through the top coat. By it's nature it is a pretty random effect of course, however, if you concentrate the salt in those areas where genuine rust and deterioration/wear would occur, the effect is pretty realistic, and can be further enhanced with some dry-brush and powder weathering to really make the detailing pop.



    photo. a quick test-fit of the body, prior to painting the blue top-coat on the main cabin wings and roof...




    photo. ...and a sneak-peek of the engine bay with the ancillaries fitted (the engine itself still needs some painting and detailing).






    I also started to detail the RC4WD dashboard (and plan to refine the deterioration on the front grille panel a little more too):




    cont.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    193

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    cont.



    photo. masking the doors prior to spraying the alternate colour for the wings and roof.



    photo. again salt added where the rust and other deterioration needs to show through.




    photo. I've found the trick is to use a deep/rich top-coat colour, so you can get away with just a single or at least a couple of fine coats, so that the salt underneath doesn't clump too much - making it much easier to remove when you wash it off.



    photo. doors unmasked, and the contrast is already clear and defined.



    photo. salt washed off (under a running tap), and the rust Activator solution reapplied to those areas which were originally painted with the Iron paint.



    More soon - I'm currently juggling all manner of components in an effort to get things to all come together quickly now!

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    NoVa
    Posts
    1,377

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    Really great work, and wonderful explanations so folks like me can learn. Thanks for that.

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