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Thread: 2WD HiLux Step-side Dually - aka. Cilla G.

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    73

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    Cabin fever!

    Ok, now the difficult part... as I've hinted a couple of times above, my colour scheme [and overall look] for this build is essentially a twist on a project I built a while ago for a Tamiya[Club] competition, which was a homage to the Cars movie Tow Mater:



    At the time of that build, it was my most elaborate paint-job to date, although with this HiLux version, there is even more detailing to consider - not least the added 'real rust' and a full interior to paint and distress.

    Since (like Mater) the doors of this build are not removable, it means I need to mask the cabin twice to achieve the two-tone effect:



    Because it will be easier to mask the smaller door panels before I paint the final 'main' body colour, it makes sense to rust/weather these first and paint the top coat - then let it dry throughly while I rust the main body, prior to masking the doors and finally adding the blue to the wings and roof.


    photo. salt added where I want the rust and corrosion to show through the top coat. note inside of the windows also masked to prevent any colour bleed to the interior.


    note. As I've continued to utilise the Modern Masters Iron paint and Activator solution on the previous body panels, I've found the best/quickest result is to paint the Iron paint on those areas I want intense rust, let it dry thoroughly (a few hours), then brush over those areas with a coating of the Activator solution. Leaving it overnight, already the process is beginning to develop - I then spray the body with water and add the salt, let the excess water dry off and then paint the top coat.

    Once the top coat has dried, washing off the salt also seems to take the 'gloss' of the paint with the Iron filings in, meaning that once you re-apply the Activator solution, the rust comes back more quickly and more intense than before too. A couple of applications of Activator a couple of hours apart and the rust is pretty much as intense as you'd want a build like this I feel.



    Interior panels...

    While I'm watching the proverbial and literal paint dry, I've elected to juggle a few more of the parts which require painting - in this instance the interior will be a dull yellow/faded mustard colour(Tamiya TS-3),and the plan is to contrast this [slightly] with tan flocking on the seat faces and door panel trims.


    photo. door speakers and handle recesses masked, as these ought to remain black plastic of course.

    The interior kit I bought (from RC4WD) comes with a number of metal details, including vent covers, dash inserts, and even door handles and infill panels for the steering wheel spokes! It also includes many plastic dash details such as heater vent knobs, column stalks, window winders, armrests and of course a pair of shift levers.

    I have to say, while this interior kit was relatively expensive ($37.99), the level of detail really is, well, 'next level' as it were... Part of me would perhaps to have liked to incorporate the AMPro Eng. illuminated dash panel (which could always be retro-fitted I'm sure), but as an overall interior, this off-the-shelf solution really is superb. Of course it's going to take all my patience and dexterity to really do all the tiny details justice!

    More soon!

  2. #32

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    You sir are a true artist! I will continue to watch with a slight big of drool!

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    118

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    Awesome thread!

    I plan on using the same chassis to upgrade the swiss cheese scx10 chassis I currently run on my Rod.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    It no longer exists.
    Posts
    11,246

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    Lovely job so far. TOMATA is not a combination I had considered for the tailgate, but I very much enjoy it. Keep it up!
    SBG OWNER YOUTUBE AXIAL AMBASSADOR GCM TEAM DRIVER VANQUISH KNIGHT CUSTOMS TEAM

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    73

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    Thank you for your kind words everyone, and apologies for the slight gap in the proceedings as I was on holiday last week... but fortunately that coincided with getting the first colour coat of paint on the body [the doors], leaving plenty of time for it to cure before masking for the second colour.:


    photo. doors in contrasting 'mint' green - Tamiya AS-29, another one of the military (aircraft) colours in flat-matt finish.

    You can see above how the salt was used to mask those areas I wanted the rust and red-oxide primer to show through the top coat. By it's nature it is a pretty random effect of course, however, if you concentrate the salt in those areas where genuine rust and deterioration/wear would occur, the effect is pretty realistic, and can be further enhanced with some dry-brush and powder weathering to really make the detailing pop.



    photo. a quick test-fit of the body, prior to painting the blue top-coat on the main cabin wings and roof...




    photo. ...and a sneak-peek of the engine bay with the ancillaries fitted (the engine itself still needs some painting and detailing).






    I also started to detail the RC4WD dashboard (and plan to refine the deterioration on the front grille panel a little more too):




    cont.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    73

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    cont.



    photo. masking the doors prior to spraying the alternate colour for the wings and roof.



    photo. again salt added where the rust and other deterioration needs to show through.




    photo. I've found the trick is to use a deep/rich top-coat colour, so you can get away with just a single or at least a couple of fine coats, so that the salt underneath doesn't clump too much - making it much easier to remove when you wash it off.



    photo. doors unmasked, and the contrast is already clear and defined.



    photo. salt washed off (under a running tap), and the rust Activator solution reapplied to those areas which were originally painted with the Iron paint.



    More soon - I'm currently juggling all manner of components in an effort to get things to all come together quickly now!

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    NoVa
    Posts
    1,125

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    Really great work, and wonderful explanations so folks like me can learn. Thanks for that.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    73

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    My pleasure ShopGTR, and thank you for your kind words!

    Here are a few more hints and tips you might find useful - although I appreciate that most of these will have already been catalogued somewhere on SBG of course.


    So now that the main [spray] painting is finished, it's time to add a few more details using a brush and acrylic paints, plus a new technique I've wanted to try for the seats and door lining panels...

    Front and rear windows



    photo. masking the window rubbers before painting with Tamiya XF-85 'Rubber Black'.



    Using a strip of masking tape around the screen (and rear window) rubbers and scoring them with your thumb nail before cutting them with an X-acto knife, leaves a nice clean line between the body panels and the rubber:






    Side windows


    photo. the side window rubbers (and in this case channels for the slide-down side windows) are also painted in XF-85 Rubber black, using a fine-tipped brush. note. gap between door and frame darkened with watered-down flat black paint (Tamiya XF-1).




    photo. while I've chosen to cover the quarter-light upright in self-adhesive aluminium foil, which when sanded back with 800 grit wet&dry leaves an authentic worn 'chrome' finish.



    cont.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    73

    Default

    cont.

    The interior is still a work in progress, but as a sneak-peek as to what you can expect:


    photo. The RC4WD full interior set includes three pedals, two gear levers (I shortened the transfer lever to make it more contemporary), window winders, arm-rests and even a pair of column stalks!




    photo. a technique I've seen, and have wanted to try myself for a while now is flocking the seats (and also the door side panels) to give a real retro 3D feel to those surfaces - and this 1980's Toyota work truck would seem to be the perfect platform...I have to say, it's really authentic!



    And finally for now, I fear I have outdone myself in the nerd stakes...


    photo. fuel filler cap on neck... actually screws on and off!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4nBcRKezB74


    More soon!

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    73

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    It's been a pretty manic 24 hours - this thing has taken over my life, but I'm getting close to finishing now all the elements are coming together at last...

    Inside job



    photo. marking and drilling for the pedals in the driver's footwell.



    photo. gear levers and flocked bench seat - note the saggy section where the driver has been sitting over all these years!



    photo. checker-plate floor mats (cut slightly small so you can see the rust in the footwell boxes).



    photo. Dashboard fully assembled - those are Wild Willy 2 dash instrument decals in the centre console - perfect fit! (note simulated wear to the glovebox lid, again, this is a 39 year old vehicle!)



    photo. door-trims include contrasting grab handles to the flock panels, metal door latches, and window winders and front speakers.



    photo. the interior finally being assembled...



    photo. finished!

    As I was putting this interior kit together, all I could think about was the original Tamiya tag-line "Scale model, suitable for radio control" - and I have to say, while this interior set is another $37.99 on top of the Mojave body set, it really is a scale model in it's own right - in fact it's almost a shame to put it inside the vehicle rather than display it on it's own! Fortunately, I've got working windows on this build so you can peek inside.

    cont.

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