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Thread: 1st Gen Mazda RX-7 Drift Build 1/24 Scale

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
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    Dayton, Ohio, USA
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    11

    Default 1st Gen Mazda RX-7 Drift Build 1/24 Scale

    Hello everyone, first build thread here so letís hope I donít mess this one up. :P

    THE BUILD:

    The goal for this car is to be a sick looking, simple little on-road drift car. Overall thereíll be more of an emphasis on performance, simplicity, durability, and reliability than pure scale realism, but Iíll still be trying to make the outside appearance of the car as scale as possible. Iíve got plenty of soul sucking builds that are far more detailed and scale accurate on the bench, so I donít want to turn this into anything too involved. Maybe just a nice weekend or two weekend projectÖ? Weíll see about that. I have no clue how well this car will be able to drift, It will use a gyro which should greatly increase the drift-ability. Canít wait to find out!

    THE BODY:

    I picked up a Revell Mazda RX-7 2ín1 kit a little while back. Iíve always liked the RX-7, especially the early models, so Iím very excited to bring this kit to life. The kit looks fantastic! From a static builders perspective I could nitpick a few things, but overall this kits very well molded and Iíve heard lots of good things about it. Being a ď2ín1Ē kit there are some awesome additional parts included such as a roll bar, wide body kit, and racing wheels.




    A nice look at everything included. Not the most detailed kit in the world, but everything looks good. Love all the additional parts.


    The body is much smaller than what I'm used to. Ive been doing a lot of builds with larger muscle car bodies so this really seems small by comparison; of course on top of already being 1/24 scale.



    THE CHASSIS:

    Back when I was first getting into 3D printing and RC about 6ish years ago, I built some super simple chassisí that used parts that could be made on a hobby grade FFF printer. These chassisí are brutally simple, there is no suspension and limited adjust-ability but super simple to print, assemble, and they are still a ton of fun to drive on flat surfaces.

    This chassis is called the FP-UC1. It can fit a large variety of bodies and is just about as simple as I can make it. The STL files can be found on our Patreon page for Builder Tier members. Weíll be putting together a nice hardware and electronics kit that includes all the non-printable parts such as hardware, bearings, servo, motor, etc. Get the kit, print the parts add your TX/RX + battery, and youíre ready to rock!

    That's about all there is to print.


    First steps are to assemble the chassis and modify the body to fit on top of it. I'll be including the kit's interior which I'll be modifying into a "shallow tub" interior by cutting out the bottom and remaking the floor much higher up to allow room below it. The wheelbase of this car is around 100mm, which is as short as I can adjust the wheelbase of the chassis without having to drill new holes. Fortunately it looks to be about perfect.



    Doesn't take more than a few minutes to get the chassis nearly fully assembled. Motor is mounted in the rear just in front the of the rear axle. The gears are large with few teeth to make printing them easier. Steering is super smooth thanks to the ball bearings on each end of the knuckles. There is a separate piece that goes between the steering center link and knuckle. Swapping this piece and using different length center links can allow for toe and akermann geometry adjustments.




    Clearly some material from the inner fender sections is going to need to be removed. I didn't want to remove more than I had to just in case I get the opportunity to build at least a semi detailed engine compartment. Oh yeah and don't worry, those wheels are just for mock-ups. The width as it is now is too wide for the body even with the narrowest front end parts I have. I would need to design and print narrower front parts If I wanted to fit the stock body, however I'm thinking of going with the wide body version.



    This chassis base sits very low, so a low stance is going to be a requirement unless I want the body to sit several millimeters above the base of the chassis. Not an ideal look.


    It's fitting much better now with these modifications. You can also see the new shallow interior tub, made by cutting the "stock" interior tub and then cutting/gluing a new flat styrene floor. The interior tub still needs work as it does not clear the rear gears. It also does not fully clear the servo arm. Still some work to do but getting close to fitting like it was made for it. Body mounts and electronics install will be next.



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    226

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    You are braver than me for trying to cram all of the electrics into a 1/24 body and then do an interior with it! I'm excited to see this and used to love these 2 in 1 and 3 in 1 kits that came with extras. When I was a kid i would put the extra parts I didn't use into a kit bashing box, but sadly didn't do anything with the stuff and eventually it went in the trash - I think along with every 1/24 model I ever built! Looks like it's going to be a fun runner when it's done.

  3. #3

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    Looking great. I am currently in the process of making an ae86 on your ffr chassis.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
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    Dayton, Ohio, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by JunkGTZ View Post
    You are braver than me for trying to cram all of the electrics into a 1/24 body and then do an interior with it! I'm excited to see this and used to love these 2 in 1 and 3 in 1 kits that came with extras. When I was a kid i would put the extra parts I didn't use into a kit bashing box, but sadly didn't do anything with the stuff and eventually it went in the trash - I think along with every 1/24 model I ever built! Looks like it's going to be a fun runner when it's done.
    Sorry about the loss. The 2 in 1 and 3 in 1 kits are always nice. I've got a growing collection of unused parts, even stuff like engines and axles since those aren't always used for an RC conversion. Not sure if I'll ever get around to even using half of it though, but still cool to have. Thanks for checking out the build.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bashnslash09 View Post
    Looking great. I am currently in the process of making an ae86 on your ffr chassis.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thank you. Sounds like a nice project. Good luck with it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Portland(ia)
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    This is really cool! I remember that RX-7 kit; it was originally a Monogram kit back in the 80s. Built one once upon a time. Molded in baby blue, if I remember.

    Going to have to pick up a chassis or two of yours when I have the funds. This is the best reason to buy the AMT/MPC/Round 2 and Revell/Monogram repop kits that I can think of!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
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    Dayton, Ohio, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by markbt73 View Post
    This is really cool! I remember that RX-7 kit; it was originally a Monogram kit back in the 80s. Built one once upon a time. Molded in baby blue, if I remember.

    Going to have to pick up a chassis or two of yours when I have the funds. This is the best reason to buy the AMT/MPC/Round 2 and Revell/Monogram repop kits that I can think of!
    Nice. It's certainly a lot of fun. A little frustrating at times to but mostly fun. I really like the wide variety of models available from all the different manufacturers.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    It no longer exists.
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    This is definitely going to be a fun little guy!
    SBG OWNER YOUTUBE AXIAL AMBASSADOR GCM TEAM DRIVER VANQUISH KNIGHT CUSTOMS TEAM

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
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    Dayton, Ohio, USA
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    Update #2

    The build is moving along about as smoothly as I could hope. Body mounts are very simple as can be seen here. I cut styrene pipes and made sure they were all the same length. Then glued magnets to the top of each pipe and to the bottom of the interior. Quick and easy removal. I plan on securing the body to the interior with Velcro.


    The front side was sitting a little low so I added a piece of styrene under the front magnets.


    Here is the completed shallow tub interior. I modified the rear to be high enough to increase the clearance around the gears and battery. Didn't worry too much about the filler and other sections not being perfect as the interior won't be too visible by the end.


    Plenty of room underneath!


    A few quick mock-ups. I will be installing the included fender flares.






    Electronics time! I removed the ESC and receiver from their cases. Obviously they are a little more prone to damage but are easier to fit, especially the receiver. I also removed the wires from the plug on the servo and ESC, you can see were they plug into the receiver. This gives the receiver a much lower profile that can fit under the interior. Just need to make sure the wires do not touch.

    All the electronics here are sold on our store except the servo which is coming soon, battery (2S 180mah), and receiver (Radiolink R6FG). The remaining electronics can be found on eBay, Amazon, etc. A local hobby shop might have something applicable, check the micro plane/drone/helicopter section for small batteries.


    A few other modifications were made to the ESC including changing the battery connector, On-Off switch delete (the ESC is on when battery is plugged in), and wiring motor directly to ESC. These are all done to save space and to not clutter the chassis more than it already is. The size of the JST connectors and Switches add up on a car this small.



    About as tidy as it's going to get. I've got the custom designed and printed wheels and tires mounted on the chassis.



    I went with a nice simple 4 spoke design. The wheels are SLA printed. Hard plastic PLA tires are used for less grip since I want this to be a drift car.



    Needed to figure out the spacing of the wheels. Don't want it to look like a scared turtle but also need to make sure the front wheels can turn left and right. I'll need to make both the front and rear wheel arches larger to allow enough room for steering and let the body sit a little lower.





    Body looks great overall but like with any other model kit, a little body work is needed to really get it looking nice. I always like to identify the mold lines with a marker before sanding them flush. Other body work included removing badges/emblems, and filling/sanding the front side marker lights. The marker lights will be pretty much half covered by the front fender flares anyway so might as well just make them flush.



    Drilled holes in the upper strut mount just large enough for some magnets. These will keep the hood closed and won't allow it to bounce around while driving.


  9. #9
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    Oct 2017
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    Portland(ia)
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    Out of curiosity: with these, is it possible to use the model kit's wheels/tires? Or use the kit's wheel faces as "hubcaps?"

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
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    28

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    Looking good! I can't wait to see this sliding around!

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