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Thread: My Nissan is heavier than your TOYota

  1. #11
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    Protip: Buy some of the insulation foam sheets and put them on your table. They are great for soaking in nasty stuff and you can drive your blade into them to clean off putty etc on the go. Thats what the pink stuff is :)

    Sorry photos came a bit dark. I didnt notice flash was on 1/4. Anyway, this is my methodology in making this. If needed i preassemble parts, then depending on correction needed i will dremel it off. Then i will hand file/sand to final shape.





    Then i will filler the whole thing. That is because in some areas you have to build UP 1mm of surface, where either the printer was off calibration or the fillament was coming way too thin and created a valley. So this horrible mess becomes a reality



    A few sets of replacement lungs later (seriously, wear a respirator for that filler, this isnt your hobby stuff and will kill you) we have this. Heavy stuff is filled in and ready for filler primer. Good to mask off any areas where you have to attach other parts to that you cannot sand down to plastic afterwards. On this side i ended up rebuilding the entire door/fender joint line. Horrible printing forced me to take off a lot extra on the fender line to clean the loose fillament so i had to extend the door edge 1mm and shape in so i can get a close gap. Probably closer than it should be but i can squeeze in some sandpaper and gap it after priming. I can't see too well right now as its all a white wash.



    And you end up with something like this, about 80% finished part. still have to clean each little grille individually:



    This is what i am using for putty. Dont bother with squadron, tamiya, mr hobby etc toy brands. Those shrink MONTHS down the road, dont adhere to pla, are way too soft and react with strong paint (absorb the solvent and shrink). But as i said, that stuff will kill you during sanding so wear a respirator. I ended up going to my physician over it... Wet sanding keeps dust down but imo isnt ideal for taking off the heavy initial coats. Dry sanding produces a much quicker and smoother job. you can finish the details wet.




    That's pretty much it. Do the same for each part or batch of parts (depending on how you attach them in groups). If you've been vaguely following fb you'd remember i melted my hood in the sun so im waiting on a replacement on that.

  2. #12
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    My OCD kinda kicked in but this side is close to done.



    This one though, much worse. I have to build up and sculp from scratch many areas to get even elevation ... takes 2 days for each layer to cure and shrink to final so it takes time but once im done with this i can begin cross member work and have something of a skeleton.




    Progress report jul 26

    as before i will not make a new post just to bump this for no reason. instead i will update this one

    Done

    - chassis/drivetrain
    - a pillars
    - b pillars
    - c pillars
    - windshield cowling
    - tailgate glass divider

    Working on

    - left and right sides 90/30%
    - rear bumper 50%
    - license plate overhang 90%
    - grille 10%
    - hood (2nd one) 30%

    In queue
    - tailgate
    - roof
    - windshield frame
    - side skirts
    - mirrors etc
    - the actual windows (the ones that come with it are not cut to my levels of OCD)
    - clear parts
    - chassis electrics


    Not going to be used currently from kit parts
    - front bumper

  3. #13
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    People dont read so here, some photos. Lets see if you figure out what is going on. Those who know what they are doing will spot what is upcoming asap.

    Anyway, making headway. Glad to say the tailgate wasnt the problem after all. It turned out to be the front end giggle sniggle. We have the technology to fix it!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    1,152

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    you can fix it

  5. #15

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    Is the hood too wide?

    I just drive the truck.

  6. #16
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    Nov 2017
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    Hood is fine. front crossmember (not visible) needs trimming to correct the reverse V shape front to back and then the cowling will need to be cut and extended to both line up with the hood side ridges and level with the fenders.

    the window frame should be correctable just by adjusting the front cross member. in theory. because it all lines up with the roof so thats one way to tell where its actually shorter instead of longer.

    ive given myself 1 year to finish this so im in no rush at all. sure it would be nice to take less but as you see, parts ive done will have to get chopped up again

  7. #17
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    Nov 2017
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    HAH HA HAA.

    "hood is fine"

    yeah. YEAH! its not. apparently

    Started assembling and there is a widening gape towards the rear. mostly from one side. Time to glue some layers, wait till they dry and shape it down as need be. funnnn. So basically this is hood v3. A little tired of hoods at this point, and still need to deal with the cowling itself, which i cut already in a completely calculated and predetermined spot



    Remember long ago i said the tailgate bothered me? Yeah? Well, i was right after all. It is a big issue. About 1/4" gaping issue. I will have to extend that too! Yep, there is nothing to hide the gap. Will figure the best way to do this, but im thinking cut it at the fake seam and add some material to the flatter section. Then create a new fake seam. We will see. Or perhaps this is my chance of making it open. Might put a beam or 2 in the rear to hold the body instead of using the tailgate as the design intends and go to town.



    Oh look, windshield frame that is also not to spec!



    That has to be cut too.

    On the flip side, im done with the rear bumper and front grille. Still, clearly im not assembling this today. Or this week. Or next. Any little dots and dents will be fixed prior to painting ofc, i see a few in the photos here.

    ps. roof lines perfectly. i am working around that. everything else is straight. (famous last words). and speaking of roof, that will get the belt sander soon. those little ridges are going like on the bumper and getting added on later as detail parts. its 40x faster and nicer than to try to sand around them and keep shape

    Alright stayed up all night tinkering with it... and i was looking at reference images. i dont even get the point of the windshield frame. ill probably just get rid of it and build me own internal one to push the "glass" flush. hmmm.. because if i think it works like it is right now, i dont like that. i'll be recutting the transparencies anyway (they are all jagged as they are scissor cut and not smoothed afterwards, might be good for a pattern tho) so we will see.

    tailgate is pretty easy and i should have the hood done a few hours after the solvent is cured (takes 20+ hours). not too bad. now im just rambling but you know what, you see 1000 toyotas for each of these so i figure this might be worth something in terms of posterity. gotta do this body justice.

  8. #18
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    (did some fitment on various things and managed to slide the tools and leave nice gauges that i will have to fix here and there)

    Tailgate is done. just need to add the inner joint seal rib (im sure there is a technical term for that area) and join it together after some sanding. affixed the roof as one piece. now comes the fun part of taming that mess of a print. its so huge. oof. stay tuned.



    hood v3 is taking shape. i'll take plenty of material off, its always easier to remove than to splice on afterwards. i only need like 1.5mm at the widest part. now its close to 3.0



    tires. good riddance never has it been so hard to choose. 98 106 and 95mm (mounted). 106 are too big so they are out. pity, loved the tires themselves. 95 might appear small but im going for 4" lift 35" tire real life look. so they actually look ok. still, might bump it to 98, all depends on actual clearance at the end. this front bumper wont be used. its here just for visual definition of wheel well.





    but once you compress it, as you see 95mm are not that small. the travel on the trx is actually a lot for an oem design





    (dont worry about the front cross mount brace. the GRC is way higher than the others i have which are low and flush. doesnt matter how high it pokes)

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    Long Island NY
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    I have a lot of respect for you guys who are assembling these 3 printed bodies, so much work, but the end results are amazing
    Doll House truck builderTeam RC4WDTEAM GCM @MikesRCWorld https://www.youtube.com/mikesrcworld

  10. #20
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    Nov 2017
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    Time and willingness to do something 5 times over until its right. Each body is different tho... some have more issues than others.

    I widened the body by 2mm while doing all this as it was the perfect moment. it is now 228 at widest vs 226 stock. Extra tire tuck is always welcomed.

    tailgate is done ish. Can you guess where i spliced that 1/4" at? Me neither. It's as flush as you will get it at this point. Dont mind my awesome cross beam holding it all together. I've already cut it a few times to adjust and it will be totally removed later on. Yes its crooked, just to trigger people's OCD. I did it on purpose just for that reason! (actually not but thats the story im sticking with)



    hood v3 is taking shape (deja vu). spent way too much time levelling it best i could with the fender curves and getting the spacing right. still a hair tight up front but im not done sanding and what not.

    I am also rebuilding the area around the headlights because of an oops i did very early on. There are several body changes to the patrol based on location sold and some had the squared off headlights at the corners. Well i never knew this so i just trimmed the fenders till they are round at the back assuming it was just printing flash left over (its was shoddy material anyway). Well actually that was supposed to be there. So now i had to create that area again. I forgot to take a photo tho, next time.

    For the curious, this appears to be made after the one still available in africa (and haiti for some odd reason) even though the y62 has been on the market for a while. Same thing that toyota does selling older models in some countries due to popularity/price/parts availability. The euro y61 one is different!

    Working on the hinges as their print is so atrocious i should bin them and make from scratch tbh. But i have to at least try to salvage them....



    ground the roof ridges flat. Which of course left some very thin plastic underneath... might as well cut that out and fill it with playdough or wet bread so you get a solid surface to work with. Im still not decided on what to use as filler, certainly wont be actual filler :)



    Working on the cowling and other things. But the cowling is the last major surgery area left (along with the roof) before we get into scratch making parts. Decided against using the rear bumper as well. More on that later. Too bad tho, i spent plenty of time finish it up. Oh well..

    Windshield frame is also out. Doesnt make any actual sense why its even part of this.... I have a chaotic way of doing things, pinching from here and there. Typically it all comes together because consistency doesnt work with these too well. You wont know something is off till you do another unrelated part etc

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