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Thread: Carisma SCA-1E Coyote

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    Northwich, UK
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    Default Carisma SCA-1E Coyote

    Kind of impulse bought this (although was going to get one once the kit was released)

    I had seen some of the early ones in action at this years UK nationals and had the chance to have a really good look at one at the same event and for the price point I was really impressed. The RTR comes with metal links in the ssupension, steel propshafts and CVD's in the front. The stock servo seems to have been well selected with reasonable torque. Oh and it come in a really nice box too.

    Anyway, being me I couldn't leave it stock, one because I really can't stand axle mounted servo's and secondly because the ride height was just a little to monster truck.

    The box.



    Fresh outta the box,



    First major change was to fir some smaller diameter shorter shocks (The stock ones have a massive girth) and to chassis mount the steering servo, whilst 3 linking the front end.













    I also took the opportunity to move the battery and electronics forward.





    I also fitted some RC4WD OEM's and 1.7 Irocs. which left it looking like this.



    More soon.

  2. #2
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    Jun 2012
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    Default

    I also knocked up some simple rocksliders to replace the stock plastic ones.



    The next step is to make the body look a little more scale.

    So I cut the rear bed out, and then designed and printed a full drop bed. The first version needs a couple of small corrections but I am pleased with the results so far.







    So now I know what corrections need to made I can change the 3D model to suit and print a final version, I am also going to drawand print a tool chest to cover the spur gear and some inner fenders for the front.

    Thanks for looking more as and when I get the printer working again.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    Quebec, Canada
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    533

    Default

    The kit is pretty nice, and those are some nice mods you got going too! What thickness steel do you use for the panhard bar supports?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    It no longer exists.
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    Default

    I love how nothing you own is stock Pete. Nice work so far. Curious to know what you think of this kit.
    SBG OWNER YOUTUBE AXIAL AMBASSADOR GCM TEAM DRIVER VANQUISH KNIGHT CUSTOMS TEAM

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Glued to a CNC Machine
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    5,414

    Default

    Hey, cool stuff! I've also thought of building on this as a base. It looked good to us as well! I like your changes, really well done too!

  6. #6
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    Jun 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frederik View Post
    The kit is pretty nice, and those are some nice mods you got going too! What thickness steel do you use for the panhard bar supports?
    Thanks Frederik,Yes it's a good little truck. The brackets are all 1mm thick steel, the bars are 3mm stainless tube.

    Quote Originally Posted by imthatguy View Post
    I love how nothing you own is stock Pete. Nice work so far. Curious to know what you think of this kit.
    I know bad isn't it. I had really really intended to leave this one alone at least for a while, it hasn't turned a wheel in stock form, before modifying it I think that for the money they are hard to beat. The materials selected are appropriate for there use, the plastics are af a good quality, although the shock hoops are a little bendy (a cross brace soon sorts that). The steel suspension links are a nice touch along with steel props and the CVD's in the front (this is an RTR afterall). Although no expert on Lexan the sheel is of a decent thickness and well molded, oh and isn't a jeep or a hilux. The molded grill, door handles etc are also nice to see at this price point as are the included light buckets. The running gear again seems well made, and mine came greased.

    It's possible to see where some costs have been saved as the axles and I suspect, although I haven't looked the gearbox, have bushes rather than bearings but again not a big deal. The motor is a non-rebuildable 35T and the esc is only a 40amp Hobbywing, but that said it will be fine using the stock nimh or 2S lipo (the ESC is 3S lipo capable). All in all I would say a great entry level somewhat scale rig at pretty sensible price. Oh and of course it also has G6 certification.

    Quote Originally Posted by generis View Post
    Hey, cool stuff! I've also thought of building on this as a base. It looked good to us as well! I like your changes, really well done too!
    Thank you sir, I think there is a lot of potential in the rig, I don't think it would be to hard to forward mount the motor to allow for a full interior with this shell. I saw your un-boxing video and got the impression you were pleasantly surprised.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    Default

    As the parts for the printer are currently winging there way from Hongkong, I decided to finish the prototype drop bed the old school way and broke out the styrene

    Using the dimensions from the cad model I reshaped the front of the bed to better match the profile of the body and also altered the size of the wheel wells, with that all done I gave the inside of the bed a couple of coats of black acrylic and then finally glued the bed and body together using silicone.

    whilst the paint on the bed dried I made a box to cover the spurgear and gave that a couple of coats of silver, once the silver has dried I will highlight a couple of details on the latch and then glue it to the bed.









    As I had the shell off I took the opportunity to install some leds and a winch on the front bumper. As the rear light bucket is for a single 5mm led I painted the complete lense red as it seemed pointless having an indicator and reverse lights that showed red.





    The indicators on the wings are a sticker from the factory, so I removed that and then removed the paint underneath and gave the clear lense a good coat of clear orange, I will probably paint some silver around the lense to create the effect of a bezel, and then installed the optional (included with the truck) light buckets and some orange LED', I have wired them as side/running lights that come on with the head lights.

    Tomorrow I will sort out some magnets to secure the rear, connect up the Heyok lighting controller and secure the rear bumper.

  8. #8
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    Made a little more progress on this tonight :-)

    Inner wings done (well at least for the moment)

    Also added some detailing to the paint.











    Just need to finish the hooking up the lights, and start on the interior. Oh and get it muddy.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    Northwich, UK
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    Being playing with sketchup again today.

    Found, on 3dwarehouse, a bench seat in a 3d model of a pickup. I got rid of the rest of the pick-up and tweaked the design to give a printable model. I currently have it scaled to 130mm wide as this will suit the coyote body.



    Also found and modified a dashboard. Again I had to scale it fit in the available space and I altered the radio and gauges to make it printable.



    Once the printer is up and running again I can print these off and get on with the interior.

    I am also going to see if I can work out how to model a new grill as most of the 4x4 Toyota (toyopet) Stouts I can find pictures of have a double headlight grill. I shall post progress as it happens.

  10. #10
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    Jun 2012
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    Well today has had highs and lows for this build, got the printer kind of working late last night so gave printing the dash and seat a try.

    Although not the best prints I have ever done they came out useable (the bottom edges warped on both the seat and dash) however the ropey bits won't be seen

    Gave the seat a light sand and then hand painted it with a brownish acrylic. between coats made a simple styrene box that will attach to the body and hold the seat in place along with the dash etc. The dash needs some more work to make it blend into the bottom the windscreen better but I am again happy with the overall effect.

    The low was blowing all the LED's in the body by forgetting to install the current limiting resistors and switching the lights on . Fortunately I didn't damage the controller and have managed to replace most of the LED's I can't get one of the rears out without removing the a lot of other bits (which I can't be bothered to do) and I had to leave one of the running lights not working as I can't find my stock of 3mm orange LEDs at the moment.






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