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Thread: Norse Twin Turbo Rat Rod

  1. #81
    Join Date
    Sep 2014


    The V8 cast engine, motor and transmission weight about half a kilo, I will work on that later as the metal Turbo's are too heavy and have broken off several times

    Old driver was heavy indeed, and not even close to be finished

    New driver nearly half the weight

    Even the cell phone seats was heavy, yes these is from way before the Axial seats and most of the underside was grinded away

    And this was my old interior setup, steel sliders, brakeline rollage and styrene floor.

    And the new driver actually fits better

    Yep, that will do!

    Made a template for the new seat

    The start of the new seat.
    I used 0.016 aluminium sheet

    Made the shape I wanted and used 2mm Eva foam as polstery

    The new seat is very lightweight at 7 grams

    Think he sits comfy

    Made a seat base with speed holes

    Made a template for seat runners

  2. #82
    Join Date
    Sep 2014


    Then I made a start on the new aluminium sliders to replace the steel ones

    Uncut sliders at 65g

    VS the steel slider at 100g. At this rate the vehicle would weight half of what it did before

    Old bits still fits

    New sliders cut and shaped

    Not much to be stuck on here...

    And think I will use this Axial radiator up front

    Mockup of the new chassis

    The only front shocks I had in my spare parts bin was these 90mm Scale shocks, after a bit playing around with parts I got them to 86mm or so by swapping spring collar and rod ends, as I don't want it to sit too high, both at ride hight and when fully extended.

    Will replace these

    Due weight savings and I wanted to clean up the look, I wanted to make the engine mounts/shock mounts in carbon.
    Started with some styrene..

    This was the general idea.
    The motor mount locking into the shock tower plates.

    Again due I wanted to save weight I made the new links in carbon instead of the 4mm allthread/brass ones.
    I used revo rod ends, 4mm set screws and 6x4mm carbon tubes.
    Allthread was glued in using Zap Z-poxy.

    And this time around I wanted to fit the battery under the bed for better CG

    Think this picture is a good place to end this update of the new version.
    Still plenty of small bits needs to be posted to be up to present day.

  3. #83
    Join Date
    Sep 2014


    I needed a new 3 link mount on the front axle to make more space for the Panhard link, as I wanted to move down the engine a couple of millimeters, and the factory upper link mount really used the space I needed.
    There is nothing wrong with the stock Axial one, I just needed a bit more space.

    Trouble was, there is a couple of 3 link mounts I wanted, they was reasonable priced, but 50 bucks in shipping is silly for a small part. Shipping tends to be 44-50 dollars to me in Norway.
    I found a upper link mount on ebay that did not look to cheap ish and it seemed it could work.
    Chopped of the center part where the upper links are ment to be mounted to, and then drilled and tapped a hole on the side for the 3 link.

    And mounted.
    As you may spot, I have gone back to factory plastic axle housing, but with beef tubes.
    Yes I? still on V1 axles

    While I waited on some axle parts to show up for the plastic housing, I swapped over the new 3 link mount on my metal axles that was still in good condition.

    And there was still plenty of space between the oil pan and driveshaft at full compression

    Scale was dragged out again, and the metal axle housing came in at 182g

    While orginal housing with steel beef tubes at 80g

    New housing for the rear

    Bare housings comes in at 33g

    Both metal axle housing comes in at 361g, that's heavy!
    I will be using these in another build

    Comple drivetrain with sliders and body came in at 1699g, nearly a kilo was shaved off at this point.

    I wanted to convert to XR mod steering, so I got hold of another set of steel beef tubes (norwegian made), and secondhand Vanquish C-hubs for cheap.
    Those came in at 66g

    Wanted narrow XR mod, so the ends was chopped off

    Needed to cut off the same abount on the beef tubes as the axle bit I removed.
    As you can see I'm running HD gears in my axles.

    Cut to length and mounted.

    I'm also running universals, can't remember what those are atm

    That will do nicely!

    For now I'm running stock Wraith steering knuckles (AR60)

  4. #84
    Join Date
    Sep 2014


    Complete axle came in at 313 grams

    As you see I jumped around a bit, sometimes some of these wrench sessions was weeks or months between them, and I do what I feel for at that moment.
    My illness also hinder me doing what I want so some days I have to do a easier task than I really wanted to do.
    But at least there is some progress and I tend to plan ahead what I want to do even it don't seems like it.

    By now you will have noticed my vehicle is under a diet.
    And the Turbo's was one of the items that needed to be de-fatned if that is a word..
    Started by making some discs out of styrene

    After chucked them into my drill, they were filed down, no fancy lathe here

    The metal turbine housings came in at 66g

    The new ones in styrene at 5g, a whole lota lighter!

    A mate of mine 3d printed some filters for me.

    I might reshape the housings later, but this is much better for the styrene manifolds.

    This was how the rear was before under the bed.
    At the rear I had a piece of 5mm aluminium and two M6 bolts going into the bumper mount

    This time around I wanted to the battery to be under the bed, so had a mate of mine knock out this in aluminium with the same upper size as the floor in the bed.

    Perfect size for 2200mAh 3s

    Will sit so under the bed.
    You are looking at the cab side

    Some measuring later it was dropped between the frame rails after a bit trimming.

    The old bed slides over the battery tray as a drawer.

    The battery tray was dropped down as far as possible.
    Upper links and the cantilever was the limiting factors.

    I had to bend the front of the bottom of the battery tray to clear the links

    This is without adjusting the ride hight.
    Need to have all the bits fitted before the hight can be adjusted.

    Not much space left between axle and battery tray, but it have full travel of the rear shocks still available.

    To have the bed locking into place I used 3mm magnets, 3 on each side on both bedside and battery tray side.
    The magnets will be hidden under the balsa planks.

    And this is my plan.
    One of those jerycans will be acting as a deadman switch, it will also be sort of extra locking device for the bed to stay in place.

    I found this at my LHS site, a deans bulkhead mount, used by the plane guys.
    This will be secured in a wall behind the subwoofer box.

    It's a two part thingy that clamps to the wall and the deans are secured by an set screw.

    This is what it looks like behind the cab.
    Imagne there is one of those bulkehead connectors for the battery under the bed, and one above for the jerry can.

    Think I stop here for this update.
    Timewise we are are now 1 year behind.

  5. #85
    Join Date
    Jan 2015


    You my friend are a Bad Bad Bad NUT....
    seriously brother.
    I'm heading back to the beginning, And reading up again on this thread.
    very cool my friend.
    Stay the path!
    Run what Ya Brung.

  6. #86
    Join Date
    Sep 2014


    Thank you 2Beers

    I really appreciate that

  7. #87
    Join Date
    Nov 2013


    ? d?ven. This is the juice!

  8. #88
    Join Date
    Sep 2014


    Quote Originally Posted by Daoger View Post
    ? d?ven. This is the juice!
    Thank you fellow norwegian

  9. #89
    Join Date
    Sep 2014


    Time to continue this saga..

    Again we are about 1 year behind the current progress.

    Testing suspension is important when duing a custom rig.
    This a full drop at the rear

    Fully compressed with both sides, hopefully this won't happen too often.

    There is about 1-2mm clearance between upper links and front of the battery tray

    To get the right clarance under the tray I had to use angled rod ends.
    The rod ends are touching the tray.

    While waiting on my final rod ends I used these.
    This setup was also changed at later point.

    Full compression at one side, aka flex, and as you can see there is plenty of room for the links when flexing

    Start on the false wall where the deans bulkhead connectors will be fitted.

    The size of the new false wall is the same as the dimmensions of the subwoofer box.

    Cut a bigger opening in the bedside so I have room for the planned connections.

    New planks was laid out since I need the correct hight for the jerrycans so I can plan the exact placement of the connector.
    The hole is for a fuel cell.

    There jerry cans will be place like so..

    Stained the new planks, use of double folded regular masking tape makes it easy.
    I only used one layer.

    I'm tired of seeing those standard red fuel cells, so I wanted to do something different.
    I found this as my guide, these are used in oval racing.

    First the freshly stained planks were laid.
    As you may notice, the tailgate is removeable, and have press fitment.

    Still checking that things fit.
    You may also spot that the shiny bolts is now removed in favor of black steel ones.
    Center bolts of the center hub was not 2.5 nor 3.0mm so I took a guess of 4-40 ones.
    4-40 did fit but was a bit tight.
    Need to grind the diameter of the bolts down later on so they fit properly in their hole.
    The outer ones is regular 2mm ones.

    VS the other side that still feature shiny bolts, seems to boring for my liking and don't fit the Rat Rod theme.
    You may also notice the axle stands. The front shock tower is still missing because I have removed the previous cut down Hi-lift ones. I'm on a diet, remember??

    Had to shave a little off the subwoofer box as the new chassis has a slightly different profile than the orginal steel chassis.

    I have stared at this view many times of what might work or not...

    The new false wall being made.
    I kept it simple, following the profile of the subwoofer box, fastned by one bolt on each side and then clamp itself around the frame at the front.
    Should be sturdy enough.

    And there is the deans bulkhead connector for my jerrycan, aka the deadman switch

    And fits inside the opening in the bed I made earlier

  10. #90
    Join Date
    Sep 2014


    The deadman switch aka my jerrycan will have this deans plug epoxyed.
    Still not soldered together here.

    The Jerrycan was then rough cut to house the deans plug above

    Now we are getting somewhere..

    The deans connctor was then soldered and then epoxy'd.
    After it had dried I filled the voids

    I was toying with magnetic solution, but rumors says they tend to loose the magnetic ability on 3s over time.
    And both the false wall and bed is out of metal and the frame is carbon and carbon is good to lead current. so I passed that idea for this project.

    One of the solutions I had to change was my body mounting system.
    Before it was hold in place by 4 screws at the bottom.
    I got a better idea.
    I simply removed the screws, enlarged the holes in the body and then used allen bolts to poke through the body.
    Now I just put my finger through the windows and pop the body off these allen bolt heads.

    Chassis side. Simply a L bracket bolted to the sliders.

    And then I made the fuel cell out of some scrap styrene bits, mostly 0.5mm, but I really wanted to use 1.5mm to give it a bit sturdyness, but I was out of that thickness.

    The other side. It's being held in place by the same magnets that hold the bed to the battery tray (3x2mm)

    Then I needed some parts, got these from Asiatees

    What's this??

    Did a error while measuring the styrene pieces on the last picture

    Have you guessed it yet?

    Yes in name of lightness, I'm making a bed out of styrene.
    At this point my camera started to get a bit worn out as white bits started to get unclear when I tried to take pictures.
    The microphone was already gone too,

    This is the style ish I'm going for..

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