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Thread: My RWD solid axle front engine Escort MK2 build

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    Quebec, Canada
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    Not really an update, but it's been a while since I included the front parts previously made with the newer chassis, so here are some mockups of the parts, held together by magnets. Should give you an "avant goût" of what's to come, I need to make a lower chassis to hold all this strong.










    Also I got wider hexes, traxxas, they are the ones I am using in the pics, looks like it's the best option to have full travel in the fenders. I could run more offset but would have to be a stiffer on-road setup.




    I also tested the other wheels but I think they are a tad too big for an authentic classic mk2 escort look, it looks more like a modern setup:




    Thanks for looking!

    Fred

  2. #32
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    Feb 2014
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    Quebec, Canada
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    I just received the Traxxas E-revo 1/16 diff (part number 7078). I will eventually try to fit it in the SDI axle, not right now though but I thought I would show you a preview.

    Thanks to Williezcr8's help (member at scale4x4rc) and idea who did the same to convert his T-Rex 44 axle to open diff, and also to Preston (Trini2DBone) for bringing back the idea and pointing me! You can find the T-Rex axle thread here:

    http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/showthread.php?t=67962





    It is just a tad too large on the gear towards the housing, but it looks like I could just grind the outer side of the gear (the side not in contact with the pinion) so it is at a slight angle and not contact the housing:




    See how it does not sit fully in because of the crown gear:





    Also another problem to solve will be how the shafts attach to the diff inside gears. I will have to drill a hole in my current axle shafts and replicate the attachment method, and remove the small shafts:





    I will also have to find a pinion that will fit, best solution might be to buy E-Revo pinion and mod it to lengthen it (because it is not long enough out of the housing to mate to a driveshaft).

    But that will be a project for later :) now that I have the axle assembled, mounted and working, I will move on to other areas. Can't wait for tomorrow and work on the front!

  3. #33
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    Feb 2014
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    Quebec, Canada
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    Tonight I made some progress on the front of the chassis. I bent some sheetmetal to form a beam the same inner size as the frame flatbar, and plugged the end with a small piece of the same flatbar so I can eventually bolt a transverse reinforcement in the front.

    Made two of these to lenghten the chassis:










    Then I drilled and bolted everything up:






















    I then started to figure out what control arm lenght I need up front, no pics of that though. To have a feel for the width and space occupied by the strut I had to assemble the first version of strut I made, but with the disc brake.

    The disc brake hex is like only 4mm thick, and maybe 2 mm of disc. The hex holes in the mini wheels are much deeper than 4mm so it makes the wheel pop out more than it should because the wheel actually sits on the disc not at the bottom of the hex.

    So I machined one wheel, and removed a bit more so I can hopefully clear the venom rc bike brake calipers:




    With the strut assembly mocked up under the fender:




    Next up will be actual struts and control arms!

    Fred

  4. #34
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    Feb 2014
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    And another "pretend that there is more done than there acually is" mock up pic :) the strut assembly mocked up under the fender:


  5. #35
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    Jul 2014
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    what a job!!!
    congrats sir!!

  6. #36
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    Feb 2014
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    Quebec, Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by CASPER View Post
    what a job!!!
    congrats sir!!
    Thanks Casper!

    Tonight I made some progress on the front struts (well only one side!) I made the upper mount, and also redid the strut itself better, with an extra untrimmed piece where I will attatch the steering arm. I need to go to sleep now so I will let the pics do the talking :)


    Here are the F104 parts used to do the upper mount:

































    That's it for tonigh, baby steps I guess! Lol I did not even start doing the lower crossmember, I wanted to have the upper end of the strut located first.

    Fred

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Sonderborg Denmark
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    Just love your sheetmetal skills Fred - thumbs up bigtime..

    What does the chassis weigh, even as it looks like 0,8mm plate i guess it adds up..

    BR Steffen / Denmark

  8. #38
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    Feb 2014
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    Quebec, Canada
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    Thanks vw83gti! Yes it does add up as I can feel it when holding it, it is no featherweight. I have a precision scale at work I might bring it today to weigh it (I'll also bring all parts that will end up on the car such as motor, servo, battery etc) to have an idea.

    I like that the added weight and the fact it is RWD will make it more realistic, it will spin the wheels longer before it speeds up (at least on loose surface). My main concern with weight is to avoid weak spots because added weight also increase stress and forces on the car.

    Fred

  9. #39
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    Feb 2014
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    Quebec, Canada
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    Just weighed it with on board all parts I could think of that will be used, it currently weigh at 4 lbs which is not all that bad I think :) I left the masking tape body shim in there just to account for some of the added crap I will add lol

    How much weight is a regular 1/10 car with battery and everything loaded? I'll have to weigh my 1/10 Tamiya TB-01 Rally Subaru to compare I guess.




    And quick view with body on and the high offset wheels in the back (and less offset in the front). Also I loaded the car with some parts to compress the suspension a bit :) though the front is still high for now.




  10. #40
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    Aug 2014
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    Sonderborg Denmark
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    That is really not as much as I expected, it think a normal plastic onroad 1/10 weighs around 3 lbs. what is the plate thickness ?

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