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Thread: My RWD solid axle front engine Escort MK2 build

  1. #331
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Quebec, Canada
    Posts
    611

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    Quote Originally Posted by pera2008 View Post
    toyota engine in ford, how dare you :-D
    Hopefully I don't get banned for even thinking about it!

    Quote Originally Posted by EagleEyes View Post
    excellent work!
    Thanks buddy! Tried the hard rubber tires on tarmac and it handles pretty good! Just sticky enough to get some grip, but can also slide it around a little bit, with lots of body movement but no rollover. But the ride was short, I had one of my front struts come apart (the one that is still early design) so I guess I'll do the second one now :)

    See below, the angled part that holds the hub to the shock is only held by one side, squeezed between the two spring adjusters on the threaded body. So it kept popping out when doing tight turns.




    Compared to the better design on the right below, the angled piece has a hole that actually wraps around the shock:


  2. #332
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Quebec, Canada
    Posts
    611

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    I have just received the dimension rc engine compartment, it is nice but it is quite a bit too big to look realistic.. Maybe I will use it anyway, but I would have liked it to be smaller.





  3. #333
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Quebec, Canada
    Posts
    611

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    I removed the Toyota logo on the engine, and put some color on it. Still need at least one coat on the head but looks kind of cool I think! I tried to grind down the underside of the motor to make it sit lower in the engine bay, but there is not a lot of meat before I reach the bottom of the cavity between the two valve cover... Do you think I could downsize to a 380 motor and not have it overheat from the weight? I am not looking at crazy power, more like scale power lol Maybe with the torque limitation on my Castle ESC, with a brushless 380 sized I would be ok?

    Anyways, on to the engine pics:





    And also since I have sourced a large sheet of black Sintra (similar to Komacel), I got started on a dash. I don't yet have all the tools to work it, for now a big yellow Olfa construction knife, a piece of very fine sandpaper (too fine), large and small dremel sanding drum, a dremel sherical metal bit and some Gorilla Gel glue. I would need some mini files and other grit sandpaper, and a smaller blade to make it a bit easier. But not too bad of a start I think! Plus it is black and already looks a bit like alcantara leather lol!

    Some reference pics, a carbon fiber Escort dash to go in group 4 racing cars, and an actual interior pic:






    I don't have much pics of the process, but I just sandwitched about 5 or 6 pieces and started dremeling.



    Then carved out the under part and the inside of the cluster the best I could with my dremel bits:





    The dash does not quite go low enough, in the reference pic there is an additional piece below the cluster (same height as the steering column). Maybe I'll skip that one if I go for the group 4 interior look.

    Also started to think of some seats, I want to find a good balance of simple design since I'm a noob, but also ok looking. And good news is the two 1S separate lipo packs are just about the right size to be hidden where the seats should be. I thought they'd be too big or to forward, but from reference pics they'll be ok!

  4. #334
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    209

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    Looks great! Might I suggest for the seats - if this is to be all scratch built, folded aluminum sheet for the seat shell and then laying craft foam with the sticky back in there to thicken things up. You can sand the foam to round the edges. Then coat the foam with wood glue using a paint brush. You can do multiple coats to insure it is sealed off for painting later. Once the wood glue dries it is paintable but I'd recommend using water based craft paint as any solvent based paint might find an uncoated spot and dissolve the spot where it made contact. Oh, paint the aluminum shell first before applying the foam if you want to because craft paints wouldn't work as well on metal.

    Here's what I did for my Vette fender flares.
    IMAG0737.jpg

    IMAG0739.jpg

    IMAG0740.jpg

    You can do sections of the seat in individual pieces such as the seat cushion, back side bolsters, lumbar, etc.

  5. #335
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Quebec, Canada
    Posts
    611

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    Thank you JunkGTZ! I did not think of that technique before, so you do keep the aluminum backing in the final piece? Neat idea to use glue to seal and thicken it. And it allows to give a bit more volume and shapes to the piece. Thanks for sharing the technique!

  6. #336
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    209

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frederik View Post
    Thank you JunkGTZ! I did not think of that technique before, so you do keep the aluminum backing in the final piece? Neat idea to use glue to seal and thicken it. And it allows to give a bit more volume and shapes to the piece. Thanks for sharing the technique!
    On the flares I made sure the foam was well coated with glue and I actually sprayed them with primer and then Krylon Semi Gloss black. You can also paint the aluminum before application of the foam. I figured if I was going to get a reaction with the foam it would show with the primer. Also, I sanded between coats of glue to smooth out any bumps.

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