sbg  

GearHead
Page 34 of 35 FirstFirst ... 24303132333435 LastLast
Results 331 to 340 of 349

Thread: My RWD solid axle front engine Escort MK2 build

  1. #331
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Quebec, Canada
    Posts
    634

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pera2008 View Post
    toyota engine in ford, how dare you :-D
    Hopefully I don't get banned for even thinking about it!

    Quote Originally Posted by EagleEyes View Post
    excellent work!
    Thanks buddy! Tried the hard rubber tires on tarmac and it handles pretty good! Just sticky enough to get some grip, but can also slide it around a little bit, with lots of body movement but no rollover. But the ride was short, I had one of my front struts come apart (the one that is still early design) so I guess I'll do the second one now :)

    See below, the angled part that holds the hub to the shock is only held by one side, squeezed between the two spring adjusters on the threaded body. So it kept popping out when doing tight turns.




    Compared to the better design on the right below, the angled piece has a hole that actually wraps around the shock:


  2. #332
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Quebec, Canada
    Posts
    634

    Default

    I have just received the dimension rc engine compartment, it is nice but it is quite a bit too big to look realistic.. Maybe I will use it anyway, but I would have liked it to be smaller.





  3. #333
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Quebec, Canada
    Posts
    634

    Default

    I removed the Toyota logo on the engine, and put some color on it. Still need at least one coat on the head but looks kind of cool I think! I tried to grind down the underside of the motor to make it sit lower in the engine bay, but there is not a lot of meat before I reach the bottom of the cavity between the two valve cover... Do you think I could downsize to a 380 motor and not have it overheat from the weight? I am not looking at crazy power, more like scale power lol Maybe with the torque limitation on my Castle ESC, with a brushless 380 sized I would be ok?

    Anyways, on to the engine pics:





    And also since I have sourced a large sheet of black Sintra (similar to Komacel), I got started on a dash. I don't yet have all the tools to work it, for now a big yellow Olfa construction knife, a piece of very fine sandpaper (too fine), large and small dremel sanding drum, a dremel sherical metal bit and some Gorilla Gel glue. I would need some mini files and other grit sandpaper, and a smaller blade to make it a bit easier. But not too bad of a start I think! Plus it is black and already looks a bit like alcantara leather lol!

    Some reference pics, a carbon fiber Escort dash to go in group 4 racing cars, and an actual interior pic:






    I don't have much pics of the process, but I just sandwitched about 5 or 6 pieces and started dremeling.



    Then carved out the under part and the inside of the cluster the best I could with my dremel bits:





    The dash does not quite go low enough, in the reference pic there is an additional piece below the cluster (same height as the steering column). Maybe I'll skip that one if I go for the group 4 interior look.

    Also started to think of some seats, I want to find a good balance of simple design since I'm a noob, but also ok looking. And good news is the two 1S separate lipo packs are just about the right size to be hidden where the seats should be. I thought they'd be too big or to forward, but from reference pics they'll be ok!

  4. #334
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    248

    Default

    Looks great! Might I suggest for the seats - if this is to be all scratch built, folded aluminum sheet for the seat shell and then laying craft foam with the sticky back in there to thicken things up. You can sand the foam to round the edges. Then coat the foam with wood glue using a paint brush. You can do multiple coats to insure it is sealed off for painting later. Once the wood glue dries it is paintable but I'd recommend using water based craft paint as any solvent based paint might find an uncoated spot and dissolve the spot where it made contact. Oh, paint the aluminum shell first before applying the foam if you want to because craft paints wouldn't work as well on metal.

    Here's what I did for my Vette fender flares.
    IMAG0737.jpg

    IMAG0739.jpg

    IMAG0740.jpg

    You can do sections of the seat in individual pieces such as the seat cushion, back side bolsters, lumbar, etc.

  5. #335
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Quebec, Canada
    Posts
    634

    Default

    Thank you JunkGTZ! I did not think of that technique before, so you do keep the aluminum backing in the final piece? Neat idea to use glue to seal and thicken it. And it allows to give a bit more volume and shapes to the piece. Thanks for sharing the technique!

  6. #336
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    248

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Frederik View Post
    Thank you JunkGTZ! I did not think of that technique before, so you do keep the aluminum backing in the final piece? Neat idea to use glue to seal and thicken it. And it allows to give a bit more volume and shapes to the piece. Thanks for sharing the technique!
    On the flares I made sure the foam was well coated with glue and I actually sprayed them with primer and then Krylon Semi Gloss black. You can also paint the aluminum before application of the foam. I figured if I was going to get a reaction with the foam it would show with the primer. Also, I sanded between coats of glue to smooth out any bumps.

  7. #337
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Quebec, Canada
    Posts
    634

    Default

    So I have not worked on seats yet, but there was something with the motor sitting just a bit too high to have a realistic fake engine position (it would touch the hood!). That and the fact the 540 sized motor has too much power anyway for dirt driving, I bought a cheap Tamiya 380 sized motor to try and make the motor lower, it is much smaller!





    I had to make a small adapter plate (out of sintra since I was really lazy and wanted to try mounting it to the tranny). It will likely overheat pretty easily, but it was cheap and I wanted to try, anyway I am always limiting the throttle on the radio settings to make it more driveable. So I guess we'll see if it melts :) I also have a Castle ESC that I can configure for current limit, I guess that could save the motor too.





    Now the motor sits at a much nicer height!







  8. #338
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Posts
    1,382

    Default

    more details, much better :-D

  9. #339
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    2,255

    Default

    Geeeesh fred
    It's really coming together.
    Last photo.....

    Been such a great build and thread.
    Thanks for sharing.

    keep it coming.
    Run what Ya Brung.

  10. #340
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Quebec, Canada
    Posts
    634

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pera2008 View Post
    more details, much better :-D
    I like details too! Thing is it seems like the more I put details somewhere, the more I need to put more somewhere else lol! I need to decide where to stop. Currently trying to resist the temptation of cutting the body panels (doors, hood) so they can open, that would be quite a timepit lol Having to build inner doors, body backing structure and all.. I'd kind of like it to have that detail, but the project would never finish, especially since I am not experimented with the plastic things.


    Quote Originally Posted by 2Beers View Post
    Geeeesh fred
    It's really coming together.
    Last photo.....

    Been such a great build and thread.
    Thanks for sharing.

    keep it coming.
    Thank you Beers :) I like how it all sits in that last pic too!

Page 34 of 35 FirstFirst ... 24303132333435 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •