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Thread: Painting hardbodies with Auto Air or Createx?

  1. #1
    Bodywerx Guest

    Default Painting hardbodies with Auto Air or Createx?

    The paint I use is sold as an automotive paint, so the prep and finish is just like the cars, Just wondering if anyone has done it yet?

    I am in the process of doing this right now on a FEW bodies.

    Any other tip and tricks?

    Thanks
    Dave Jones

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC Canada
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    14,718

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    Dave I used Createx (Acrylic Enamel) for years airbrushing for automotive/motorsports apps too, also brought allot of static models in the booth "on lunch breaks". I always prepped them as I would a car, sand, prime, base with solid color, createx... followed by some very light coats of clear, few good coats of clear.

    The biggest two things for me were
    - trying to keep the layers light as it doesn't take long to loose body detail and definition.
    - for full color jobs, keeping the thinners from biting into the ABS too much... I always fogged on my base and initial layers of clear to get get a good base down before getting real heavy...
    Last edited by UNGLEWD; 06-07-2011 at 07:18 AM.

  3. #3
    Bodywerx Guest

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    So, you would use a base from another company? then the AA? I have been reading you don't need to with the AA. I use the sealer, and then the color, and then clear.

    What are you using for clear? 2 stage? I am hoping to use a rattle can, but I am thinking I might have to go 2 stage.

    Hardbodies are all new to me. No issues with lexan. I have a few to do, so I have to get it right.
    I am starting with a butchered Tundra that a guy sprayed lacquer on. I am stripping it and doing a "quicky" on it right now. Then I have 4 others to do after that. LOL

    Thanks

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    BC Canada
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    Yes you can go straight to the Createx from your primer/sealer, I suggested the solid color just because usually when I was airbrushing graphics it would be on a surface already sprayed with base, wet sanded to prep for graphics or I would just lay a base down with the large gun to save the product.

    In most cases I was doing full 2 stage clear, but have had pretty nice results with spray can clears.
    Tamiya and believe it or not Krylon clears. As you know you'll never get the finish you would with a high end automotive clear.
    Also, maybe that Duplicolor Clear that they advertize, I think it's available in a spray can <<< no guarantee as I've never used it before

    As for the body that's been sprayed it will be interesting to see the results... I hope it was sanded well before the original Laquer went on. Myself I would keep the coats light so it doesn't bite into the old stuff.

    What are you prep sanding with (800-1200 grit)?
    Last edited by UNGLEWD; 06-07-2011 at 08:24 AM.

  5. #5
    Bodywerx Guest

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    I am getting all the old paint off with break fluid, and then sanding it with 320 to get it all back smooth.
    The issues is the paint pitted the body, so I am doing a LOT of sanding with 120 to level it all out, and then 400, 600, etc..

    I will post pics tonight.

  6. #6
    Bodywerx Guest

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    Well I tried things with the ways discussed, and the darn clear coat, just keeps sinking. I am thinking I might just go the rattlecan route.

  7. #7
    Tanqueray Guest

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    Dave, I used auto spray cans on my jeep build.
    Couple of things:
    I used flat black primer on my jeep build which was great, saved me some work, pretty tough stuff too

    the gold/orange is actually engine paint. this one has cause me a bit of grief. You can actually see the line of the initial jeep's color where it went from grey to black on the sides of the body, I guess I should of sanded it out, but I thought the paint would hide it cause it was so smooth.

    However, the real issue was when i had to do touch ups with the orange using a paintbrush. I dunno if it's cause it was a spray bomb or the metal flake, but when used with a paintbrush, it was going right through the primer and I was having the beige plastic showing through, was VERY hard to do touchups

    then again, may just be me being a noob, i suck with paints, all i know is that the flat black primer was just awesome :D

  8. #8
    Bodywerx Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tanqueray View Post
    Dave, I used auto spray cans on my jeep build.
    Couple of things:
    I used flat black primer on my jeep build which was great, saved me some work, pretty tough stuff too

    the gold/orange is actually engine paint. this one has cause me a bit of grief. You can actually see the line of the initial jeep's color where it went from grey to black on the sides of the body, I guess I should of sanded it out, but I thought the paint would hide it cause it was so smooth.

    However, the real issue was when i had to do touch ups with the orange using a paintbrush. I dunno if it's cause it was a spray bomb or the metal flake, but when used with a paintbrush, it was going right through the primer and I was having the beige plastic showing through, was VERY hard to do touchups

    then again, may just be me being a noob, i suck with paints, all i know is that the flat black primer was just awesome :D
    T, I don't see what any of your comments have to do with AutoAir or Createx, but thanks for your painting input.

    I have the Tundra into a base coat, and I am going to try the color coat tonight.

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