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ecoli
11-10-2008, 07:55 PM
I took on the satisfying task of build a winch this evening and thought I'd share it in a tutorial for others. It's really quite simple to do, this was the first one I've ever done, and it turned out perfectly.

What you'll need:


Servo (preferably metal geared, plastic ones will strip out quickly. I'm not sure what brand I used, I think Towerpro, but the label was gone).
Small screwdrivers
Needle nose pliers
3 channel radio with three position switch (I used my DX3r)
Drill and bits
Dremel and cutoff wheel
File


You may not actually need the last three items depending on the servo you use. I did!

The goal of using a standard servo for a winch is to remove the typical 90 or 180 degree rotational limit on a stock servo and instead have it rotate forever. With the three position switch, center is stopped, and then you flip/move the switch one way for clockwise rotation, the other way for counterclockwise rotation (hence why you need a 3 way switch).

1099

First, flip the servo over and remove the four screws holding the case together.

1100

Remove the top of the case. For this tutorial, you only need to worry about the output gear (left most), and center gear (center, obviously!)

1101

If you can, pull out the top most center gear. In my case, the bearing on the output gear was in the way, so I first used pliers to remove the center gear pin, then removed the top most center gear. Set the center gear aside, you're done with it for now.

1102

Remove the output gear. In my case, it needed a little prying to get off, but not too much stress (it is a plastic case afterall!). Now note on the larger gear there is a small pin sticking up that hits the case to prevent overrotation on a standard servo.

1103

Either using pliers or a Dremel cutoff wheel, remove the pin on the output gear. If you use a cutoff wheel, use a flat file to file any remaining pin still sticking out flush with the brass gear.

1104

Now flip over your output gear. On the underside you'll notice there's a plastic insert with either a - or + in it which sits on the pot adjuster. The pot adjuster is what finds center on the servo and isn't needed for a winch.

1105

Using a drill, drill out the plastic inserts so that the pot adjuster spins freely in the output gear. Some servos have bushings or bearings that will easily come out and the plastic insert can just be removed. In this case, the servo I had came with a pressed in bearing necessitating the drilling step.

1106

If the center pin is still out, put it back in now, but don't put back the center gear you removed. Plug the servo in your auxillary slot in a receiver, set your selected switch to three position (in the case of the DX3r, there are numerous options), and power up your servo. At this point, you'll likely notice that the gears start spinning. You'll need to grab the pot adjuster (circled) and rotate it either left or right until it's centered (gears no longer spin). It's quite finicky, but you'll eventually find center!

Now, very carefully replace the center and output gears. I say carefully as you don't want to bump the pot adjuster and need to recenter it again. I did this with everything plugged in.

1107

Replace the cover and casing screws. Test out your winch with your switch. Use your trim adjust if the servo happens to drift. I'll let you figure out what you want to use for a winch drum, there's lots of options out there. I haven't decided myself just yet!

There you go, build yourself a winch servo in probably less time than it took you to read this!

UNGLEWD
11-10-2008, 07:56 PM
Oh, finally! :bowdown:
Someone answered....thanks so much for this!

ecoli
11-10-2008, 07:59 PM
Wow, that was a fast reply :D! I've been wanting to do this for a while, but always figured it was too daunting of a task, plus didn't have a servo I was willing to sacrifice. Really easy though!

Tired
11-10-2008, 09:35 PM
Thanks Chris, nice job!

Vertigo
11-11-2008, 05:33 PM
Very nice tutorial Ecoli. Thumbs up. I just did the same mod to a hitec hs-645mg servo that I needed to replace the gears in. As with your mod I removed the plastic cog that drives the locator pot and grind off the travel limiting pin. Once I go the motor to stop running with adjusting the centering pot, I placed a couple drops of thick CA glue on the pot to hold its position.

F350 Tonka
11-11-2008, 05:37 PM
You Rock Dude been waitin on this one for a while.

ecoli
11-11-2008, 08:59 PM
Very nice tutorial Ecoli. Thumbs up. I just did the same mod to a hitec hs-645mg servo that I needed to replace the gears in. As with your mod I removed the plastic cog that drives the locator pot and grind off the travel limiting pin. Once I go the motor to stop running with adjusting the centering pot, I placed a couple drops of thick CA glue on the pot to hold its position.

Good tip! Fix that bugger permanently in place if it gives you grief :biggthumpup: There's really no need for the locator pot once it's been centered.

HeyOK
11-12-2008, 10:01 AM
Nice tutorial!

Please post a pic of the spool/drum that you end up with and maybe an action shot!

ecoli
11-12-2008, 06:25 PM
Will do Al. Scoop88 is hooking me up with some Futaba servo horns (are the round ones still called horns? Anyways....) so I'll need to wait for those and then build up the drum. After that, I'll post up video of it in action.

Tired
11-12-2008, 06:48 PM
How much winch torque do you need to pull your rig up a tree or out of a mudhole or something? Is a well-used 645 plenty for this?

dubfreak
11-12-2008, 09:09 PM
well with my towerpro i can lift the truck and it weight around 6 pound prety amazing
for my part i've replaced the positioning potentiometer with a potentiometer that i bought in an electronic store it's smaler then the one in the servo and the ajustement on it is 10 turn so the spot where the servo is in nutral is huge i've just hoked the tree wires to the new poten. and ajusted it and closed the servo that litle thing cost like 5$ so realy cheap i bought 3 of them just in case i would like to make some more

for the barel i used two servo saver parts from the ax10 rtr kit there like tree of them in the kit and one as the good pline for the towerpro there a litle piece to remove but it's so easy and you take two and it makes a nice barel

frank

i'l post some pics later

dubfreak
11-12-2008, 09:23 PM
here's some pics in the first one you can see the litle potensiometre with the smal nub you have to rotate to ajust the center but it's a 10 turn so center position is wide and with that you dont need to remove or drill the port in the gear that recyve the original positioning sensor seens you remove it

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa30/dubfreak18t/winch004.jpg

now for the barel these are the parts for a servo saver in the ax10 rtr kit with the spline in them just find the one that's right for your servo and the other one does'nt mathe cut the square that is use for the servo saver mecanism and with a long screw it's done

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa30/dubfreak18t/winch007.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa30/dubfreak18t/winch006.jpg

hope it will help

frank

Tired
11-12-2008, 09:56 PM
:Wow1:.nice mods Frank...this is gonna be my next project.

ecoli
11-13-2008, 02:37 PM
Frank, did you have to solder in the new pot? If so, I'd say it's 50/50 on which way you decide to make the winch (drilling out or replacing the pot).

Mike, to answer your question about the servo, I would definitely recommend a metal geared, standard size servo. The 645MG should work fine for regular duty. If you're trying to pull yourself out of boot sucking muck though, you may find you need to upgrade to something a little heavier duty. A 5955TG should be bombproof, although a little expensive (and now getting harder to find since they stopped making them)!

dubfreak
11-13-2008, 05:54 PM
my point on replacing the pot was that the center was more easy to settle i had trouble to have the original pot to maintain the motor from the servo to stop completly of turning and thats the case lots of the time it's most of the time on one way or the other and soldering tree wire is quite fast to have a completely stop servo

frank

ecoli
11-17-2008, 09:10 AM
Agreed Frank, that would be a definite advantage. Do you have a part number/store for the pot you used in your servo winch?

dubfreak
11-17-2008, 10:38 AM
for the store down here is electro5 a local suplyer of electronic stuf for the part number

it's a BOURNS #3296 hope it's helps but if you dont find some i'l ship some to you will need to see the exact price for them

by the way it wokt so great with my dx6i trans. that i put a pot on it to realy smoth operation

frank

HeyOK
03-28-2009, 10:49 AM
Just wanted to encourage others to buid themselves a winch. Here is one I just made:

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x70/heyokal/servo/DSC_9558.jpg

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x70/heyokal/servo/DSC_9559.jpg

To make the spool, I used two round servo horns, a long M3 screw and a short length of aluminum tubing.

I'm thinking the width of the spool should probably be narrower to avoid putting too much angular stress on the shaft. What do you guys think?

canadianlimitededition
03-28-2009, 12:11 PM
depending on how much room you have you could build a piece of something for the other end like a bearing cap

soleslaw
01-02-2010, 02:00 PM
Is there a way of removing the pot altogether? Or maybe soldering all the wires to the pot together or something?
This thing takes a bump or jolt and just starts turning on its own even though my pot was crazy-glued at center.

Any help, as usual, is greatly appreciated

curly
01-02-2010, 02:11 PM
what i did was to change the pot to a mini pot of the same value and then mount it on the outside of the servo i hot glued it on o put a straw over the adjustment then when it cooled i adjusted to center put a thin layer of vasaline over it so when it changed i could esily adjust center again

this was for my tug but should work aswell for your rig
maybe use siilicon rether than vasiline

soleslaw
01-02-2010, 03:06 PM
I want to completely omit the adjustment aspect. Forward and reverse only. If i have to find neutral with my trims then thats fine as long as it DOESNT KEEP CHANGING!

Ax-hole
01-02-2010, 03:20 PM
Is there a way of removing the pot altogether? Or maybe soldering all the wires to the pot together or something?
This thing takes a bump or jolt and just starts turning on its own even though my pot was crazy-glued at center.

Any help, as usual, is greatly appreciated

I have heard of removing the pot and replacing it with resistors two of egual value (no idea what value) one from center pot wire to left wire and one from center pot wire to right wire. I havent tried this but it seems like it might work in theory, any electronics gurus got an idea?

soleslaw
01-02-2010, 03:39 PM
I have heard of removing the pot and replacing it with resistors two of egual value (no idea what value) one from center pot wire to left wire and one from center pot wire to right wire. I havent tried this but it seems like it might work in theory, any electronics gurus got an idea?

That would be cool, but a resister free-cost free way would be better

right now I want to launch this thing on a rocket into the sun jason:mad:

Code454
01-02-2010, 03:50 PM
yeah ive seen that to i will check later on rcc i think there were some threads about it

curly
01-02-2010, 04:43 PM
on the back of the pot there is a number 50k somthing like that
you would need 2 x 2.5 k resistors or 2500 ohms

but there is always a but
i have done this and somtimes you need a 2.2 on one side a and a 2.8 on the othe th value isnt always center at 50%
if you get me a servo i can fix it or if metal gears done mater i can make one and sawp with you
there is a thread on cc for this

HeyOK
01-02-2010, 04:47 PM
I posted this before somewhere.

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x70/heyokal/Parts/resistors.jpg

Get two resistors maybe 4.7K and solder them in (in place of the pot). I show a pot as the lower part of the drawing for your reference.

It still might drift on you a bit. The problem is that it is a very high gain circuit that tries to compensate for any drift by moving the pot back into position. Eliminating the pot gets rid of the feedback that works to make it stable.

I could probably come up with a winch driver circuit for about $20 that wouldn't drift at all. Would that interest you guys? If a couple of people commit to this I will do it.

curly
01-02-2010, 04:53 PM
I posted this before somewhere.

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x70/heyokal/Parts/resistors.jpg

Get two resistors maybe 4.7K and solder them in (in place of the pot). I show a pot as the lower part of the drawing for your reference.

It still might drift on you a bit. The problem is that it is a very high gain circuit that tries to compensate for any drift by moving the pot back into position. Eliminating the pot gets rid of the feedback that works to make it stable.

I could probably come up with a winch driver circuit for about $20 that wouldn't drift at all. Would that interest you guys? If a couple of people commit to this I will do it.


would this be a plug and play device or somthing to solder inplace of the pot

HeyOK
01-02-2010, 04:55 PM
I'm assuming that you are talking about the winch controller circuit. It would solder to the servo motor in place of all the servo's electronics.

curly
01-02-2010, 05:00 PM
yes i was talking about the winch servo
i would take one to help come up with a new device that would give a me a spare board for a blown servo

HeyOK
01-02-2010, 05:07 PM
That's great Darwin! I'll get on this soon.

Rockfrog
01-02-2010, 06:09 PM
I'll commit to buying one as long as it'll swap into a standard size servo. would it be compatible with a digital servo? I have both a few TowerPro MG966R digital and some Hobbico CS-70MGBB to choose from.
Dave


... I could probably come up with a winch driver circuit for about $20 that wouldn't drift at all. Would that interest you guys? If a couple of people commit to this I will do it.

Code454
01-02-2010, 06:18 PM
i think i got some servos, i might try it as well:beerchug:

HeyOK
01-02-2010, 06:18 PM
As long as the motor runs from two wires (ie not brushless) it should be fine. Might be a bit of a challenge to fit it in a servo, but I think I can!

Rockfrog
01-02-2010, 08:19 PM
Even external works for me ... I thought you meant to fit it inside the case was all.

HeyOK
01-02-2010, 08:38 PM
I'd like to see it fit inside the case too. If not, it would probably be a blob of heat shrink on the end of a servo cable with a pair of wires that you would solder to the winch's motor.

HeyOK
01-04-2010, 12:20 PM
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x70/heyokal/Parts/IMG00750.jpg

Did some R&D this morning. Got things figured out and just have to order a motor driver IC. This is going to work!

Uses a PIC and a motor driver IC. No more winch drift!

Hopefully I will have a few of these built by the end of the week.

soleslaw
01-04-2010, 12:22 PM
Whoa that was quick!

There are alot of components there....how small do you figure this bad-boy will be?

Code454
01-04-2010, 12:26 PM
Sweet that was quick lol... and there are alot of components for testing i beleive once you figure the parts out the its just as simple as putting all together and making it work without the testing board lol

i wish i still remembered how to do that stuff from school, but no such luck lol

HeyOK
01-04-2010, 12:27 PM
Sorry... rather than put away components I'm not using, I just jam them into the left side of the bread board.

There is a bunch of stuff left in the circuit from my Dual Motor Dig Controller that aren't really needed for this build.

I should be able to make it a little smaller than the driver circuit board that I yanked from the Tower Pro servo. Should be two little 8 pin ICs and a small cap and a bit of wire.

soleslaw
01-04-2010, 12:36 PM
Beautiful!! I was swearing at mine all day yesterday, I was thinking of bypassing it with a power on/off switch but this is way better!!!

Do you figure you'll able to come up with a brushless version later on?

HeyOK
01-04-2010, 12:38 PM
Brushless? Sure, just use one of your extra ESCs!

Are you looking for a hot rod winch?

soleslaw
01-04-2010, 12:39 PM
Brushless? Sure, just use one of your extra ESCs!

Are you looking for a hot rod winch?

lol....maaaaybe :laugh:jason

*edit; you could use an extra HD servo with a sprocket to run "power attachments": small saw, 'lawn mowers', bucket attachments, hell ya!

Rockfrog
01-04-2010, 11:16 PM
Holy crap that was fast!

HeyOK
01-05-2010, 06:39 AM
lol....maaaaybe :laugh:jason

*edit; you could use an extra HD servo with a sprocket to run "power attachments": small saw, 'lawn mowers', bucket attachments, hell ya!

Cool idea!

HeyOK
01-05-2010, 03:40 PM
Just a progress report. My driver circuit came in today and I was able to wire things up and get them working.

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x70/heyokal/Parts/IMG00751.jpg
The two little black blobs on the servo cable in the lower right is the new circuit. It will be cleaner and wrapped in heat shrink when it is complete. The red and black wires hanging out the bottom will need to be soldered to your servo motor inside the case.
The little circuit board on the servo cable at the top is the original servo circuit.

I'm not really happy with the performance of the motor driver part that I chose so I have ordered a different one that I should be able to test out tomorrow. There are so many parts to choose from and I didn't pay enough attention to some of the specs. The part I am trying tomorrow has a much lower Rds ON (resistance when turned on) and should work better.

I rethought my microcontroller code and have made an improvement. When the winch is stopped, I have it apply "brakes" by shorting the motor winding. This will help keep the winch line where you left it when there is a load on it. My first attempt at programming just removed power to stop the winch which is fine but having it work like a drag brake on an ESC is better.

Hope I sell more than just a couple of these things to recover some of my R&D ;)

soleslaw
01-05-2010, 03:45 PM
Hope I sell more than just a couple of these things to recover some of my R&D ;)

Dude, this is way cheaper than sending to nasa to launch into space!!

Let us know when you have a solid cost, hopefully since it only has a couple components, small and easy to produce it will be cheap

HeyOK
01-05-2010, 07:53 PM
It looks like I can do this for the $20 I was hoping for, but will know more soon.

curly
01-05-2010, 08:19 PM
not to be a trouble maker but will this work on a 3racing winch ???

HeyOK
01-05-2010, 08:20 PM
I don't see why it wouldn't work on a 3racing winch. Did the controller that came with it fail?

curly
01-05-2010, 08:23 PM
no just preparing for the future
there is a lot of guys with no controller

also i just had a thought this thing could run the police lights when turned on

basicaly it could be a variable voltage switch or is it just on /off fwd and rev

HeyOK
01-05-2010, 08:26 PM
It is three position.

Off which means the motor leads are shorted (the Brakes are applied)
Forward
Reverse

curly
01-05-2010, 08:30 PM
would it then work for police lights
just tryin to save you some work

HeyOK
01-05-2010, 08:39 PM
Need an astable multivibrator circuit for the lights! Or something like that.

curly
01-05-2010, 09:03 PM
there you go i thought i would ask because sure as someone wil try to use it like a speed control

ps just got your voice mail from earlier fido aint no better lol

HeyOK
01-06-2010, 04:36 PM
Today I got the new motor driver IC connected and it works great!

Now I have a question for you guys that have a winch already. When you are spooling the cable out, are you able to pull it out? Or is there too much drag from the gears etc inside the winch?

The reason I ask is that I can build a "Brake Release" into the programming of the winch controller I am making. I was thinking of running a pair of wires out of the circuit to a toggle switch. Normally the brake would be applied when you aren't winding in or out, but throw the switch and the brake is released. I'm just not sure if it is even possible to pull on the winch line of one of these things in order to let out more cable. What do you think?

soleslaw
01-06-2010, 04:47 PM
Today I got the new motor driver IC connected and it works great!

Now I have a question for you guys that have a winch already. When you are spooling the cable out, are you able to pull it out? Or is there too much drag from the gears etc inside the winch?

The reason I ask is that I can build a "Brake Release" into the programming of the winch controller I am making. I was thinking of running a pair of wires out of the circuit to a toggle switch. Normally the brake would be applied when you aren't winding in or out, but throw the switch and the brake is released. I'm just not sure if it is even possible to pull on the winch line of one of these things in order to let out more cable. What do you think?

a 645mg will unreel with the whole weight of the truck on it...but its hard to pull out of the reel with your hand without impaling yourself with your hook.
Freewheeling the barrel would be awesome on those long pulls when it takes forever to get your winch line out though!! I have about 30' of cable on mine so you can understand my frustration

curly
01-06-2010, 04:48 PM
i have a 3 racing and 2 servo winches and dont wish to pull it out by hand
i can but i have to pull hard

HeyOK
01-06-2010, 04:54 PM
Ok, thanks for the input.

Maybe what I will do is include this feature. I will leave a loop of wire hanging off the circuit board. If someone wants to use it, just cut the wire and install a switch. If people don't want it, they don't have to mount a switch and it will just work normally.

curly
01-06-2010, 04:54 PM
options i think we all like options

soleslaw
01-06-2010, 04:56 PM
Ok, thanks for the input.

Maybe what I will do is include this feature. I will leave a loop of wire hanging off the circuit board. If someone wants to use it, just cut the wire and install a switch. If people don't want it, they don't have to mount a switch and it will just work normally.

I dunno dude, its REALLY hard to pull out that wire on a servo winch, might not be worth doing unless you have a very very weak servo. There's so much gearing in there...

HeyOK
01-06-2010, 05:02 PM
I dunno dude, its REALLY hard to pull out that wire on a servo winch, might not be worth doing unless you have a very very weak servo. There's so much gearing in there...

That's a good point too... even with the brake off, it might just be too much effort to pull.

soleslaw
01-06-2010, 05:05 PM
Cool, sounds like you got 'er close to wrapped up then?

Cost + shipping to me plz!! lol I need one of these like nothin else man

HeyOK
01-06-2010, 05:10 PM
$20 plus whatever the posties want to ship it.

Just to make sure we are on the same page... Are you ok to open up the servo and remove the old circuit board, solder the new circuit to the motor (two wires) and screw it back together again?

soleslaw
01-06-2010, 05:32 PM
$20 plus whatever the posties want to ship it.

Just to make sure we are on the same page... Are you ok to open up the servo and remove the old circuit board, solder the new circuit to the motor (two wires) and screw it back together again?

Dude, in my opinion if you can't do this kind of stuff you're in the wrong hobby :laugh: jason

curly
01-06-2010, 06:38 PM
um uh mmm i think i can i think i can
oh hell i know i can

hang on what are we talking about lol

HeyOK
01-07-2010, 08:26 AM
Got it done!

To install the winch controller circuit, take the bottom cover off your servo. Unsolder the two wires from the motor and three wires from the pot then remove the servo circuit board.

Solder the two wires from the winch controller to the motor, fit the circuit inside the servo and put the servo's bottom cover back on.

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x70/heyokal/Parts/DSC_1872.jpg

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x70/heyokal/Parts/DSC_1870.jpg

curly
01-07-2010, 09:58 AM
i cann stop by saturday if you like to pickup or if your out my way let me know

HeyOK
01-07-2010, 10:02 AM
i cann stop by saturday if you like to pickup or if your out my way let me know

Sounds great to me! I might be out that way Friday after work - will call if I am.

How many would you like?

Ax-hole
01-07-2010, 10:45 AM
Got it done!

To install the winch controller circuit, take the bottom cover off your servo. Unsolder the two wires from the motor and three wires from the pot then remove the servo circuit board.

Solder the two wires from the winch controller to the motor, fit the circuit inside the servo and put the servo's bottom cover back on.

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x70/heyokal/Parts/DSC_1872.jpg

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x70/heyokal/Parts/DSC_1870.jpg

I assume that you would have to remove/modify the gear from the pot (as per the first post in this thread) as well?

soleslaw
01-07-2010, 10:48 AM
I assume that you would have to remove the gear from the pot as well?

You'd have to pull that little platic insert out, or you could just pull the pot??

curly
01-07-2010, 10:49 AM
you would remove the stop on the gear like any convertion for a winch servo

HeyOK
01-07-2010, 10:49 AM
I assume that you would have to remove the gear from the pot as well?

Sure, you would do what you normally would do to make your servo into a winch. I was just going on the assumption that someone already had a winch and wanted to get rid of the creeping problem. My circuit won't drift in and out like a regular servo controller winch would.

ecoli
01-07-2010, 11:12 AM
Great product. I was wondering if it was all going to fit inside the servo, but that doesn't seem to be an issue at all. Will definitely pick one up for my next winch.

HeyOK
01-07-2010, 11:20 AM
Great product. I was wondering if it was all going to fit inside the servo, but that doesn't seem to be an issue at all. Will definitely pick one up for my next winch.

Thanks! By the way... sorry for making such a mess of your thread! :blink:

soleslaw
01-07-2010, 11:34 AM
Al, you have no idea how much frustration this with alleviate.

I would stop on the trails, center my winch and drive 20 feet to notice my winch line was wrapped around my axle stub or driveshaft..Rockets man, into space I tell ya!!

Thank YOU buddy!

HeyOK
01-07-2010, 11:36 AM
So welcome!

ecoli
01-07-2010, 01:52 PM
Thanks! By the way... sorry for making such a mess of your thread! :blink:

Mods have some cleaning up to do ;)!

HeyOK
01-07-2010, 07:30 PM
Yes, it will work on the 3racing winch. Just have to solder the output of the controller to the motor on the winch.

HeyOK
01-12-2010, 08:02 AM
Got all the bugs worked out! The final circuit is just a little thicker than you saw in the pics but will still fit nicely inside a servo.

Three winch controllers are spoken for and two are tentatively sold.

That leaves two more plus the one in the winch I built up.

graminizer
10-24-2010, 10:40 AM
Can you guys show me how you have your servo winches mounted? Also, do you guys use the pro-line winch for the line to come out of? Thinking of doing this but I want to have a good idea of what it all looks like when it's done. Thanks guys:biggthumpup:

graminizer
10-25-2010, 09:29 PM
Anyone?

HeyOK
10-25-2010, 09:33 PM
I recall a build the Ecoli did where he mounted the servo winch somewhere away from the bumper and routed the winch line to the front through some tubing. I don't have time to search for it now, but maybe you can find it.

RCFreak
10-26-2010, 08:52 PM
Here is the one Ecoli did up that Al was telling you about .

http://www.crawlcanada.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9781&page=10

graminizer
10-27-2010, 04:20 PM
Thanks guys....that helps.:biggthumpup:

jaymann
11-26-2010, 11:46 PM
For what it's worth I made this one for my summit which is pretty heavy needed a strong mount.It's ugly but it works for testing purposes
http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx229/jdamann/irst%20attemp%20at%20building%20a%20winch%20winch/1011111132000.jpg
http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx229/jdamann/irst%20attemp%20at%20building%20a%20winch%20winch/1011111131000.jpg

HeyOK
11-27-2010, 06:52 AM
Hey jaymann, that winch mount looks like it will do the job just fine. What kind of servo did you make the winch from? It looks like a fairly strong one because it uses six screws to hold the bottom of its case. Do find that the winch line ever drifts in or out and you need to stay on top of the trim control?

jaymann
11-27-2010, 05:10 PM
So far not to bad.It can be trimmed on the back of the tx.the servo is a Towerpro 9805mg.It's a 1/5 scale sized servo.I had to get something strong as this truck is gettin heavy:laugh:+ weight in the fronts never weighed it but gotta be 14lbs i'll ask smart racer to weigh it next time i go there.modded the tq4 to have control of it.Never tried to pick the truck Right off the ground :paranoid: but it will pull the truck up pretty near anything.Haven't had it stall yet 300oz or so is quite a bit i guess:beerchug:

jaymann
11-29-2010, 09:46 AM
If it does start to drift and i can't stand it.I'll talk to you as you seem to have got this issue figured out.I'm guessing your controller would work on more or less any truck?

HeyOK
11-29-2010, 10:09 AM
My controller should work fine for whatever truck you have. The winch you see in my vendor thread video I have used to lift my 1/8 scale truggy and it has no problem. I've lifted a 15 lb chair with it too.

jaymann
11-29-2010, 02:59 PM
I guess mine is just a tad overkill,Oh well it was pretty cheap at least.Thanks i may end up going your route.But i had to try.On a positive note the 50lbs test downrigger line i'M using broke today on a pull up a ledge the front skidplate got caught on a rock and it started to rotate the back of the truck up just before the line snapped.The winch didn't even really slow down.I think it's strong enough to pull my truck and another truck attached to the back up a cliff.LOL.That will be a test 'll have to try

jaymann
12-02-2010, 04:47 PM
Needed some parts so went to smart racers and weighed it 14.5 pounds man what a tank.Small trees be afraid be very afraid