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generis
08-17-2012, 07:22 AM
Hey Y'all, I wanted to get this started now that there's a body in the mix. We are going to build up this monster:
The GCM SuperDuty Slider :laugh:


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JRu_KHuvcjc/UC5PplIm5qI/AAAAAAAAEX0/sGQYi4li-pI/s912/IMAG0740.jpg

MOre coming soon!

UNGLEWD
08-17-2012, 09:09 AM
Lovin the body on there... another from Steve?
Watcha using for a chassis Chris?

generis
08-17-2012, 09:20 AM
Yep! Well, sort of...... haha

I want to get some 'real camera' pics of it today, then I'll spill the beans! COOL!!

generis
08-17-2012, 02:32 PM
Alright, here's some from home: This thing is easy to look at!!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Wk2SOhYUmyU/UC62M0NG0LI/AAAAAAAAEY0/Il1c65_mS5A/s800/DSCF1239.JPG

And, Man--the action shots with this are amazing! Can't hardly wait for some video!! Mr. Aaron, hurry up and finish your new body so we can do a vid!!

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KLMLvYbirek/UC62VKzf9NI/AAAAAAAAEZs/DsTQMg9vxh4/s800/DSCF1246.JPG

Now on to the technical stuff....

generis
08-17-2012, 03:23 PM
Ok. Here's the goods on this build so far.

The body was originally from my RB2x build. This is a custom E-Savage that GCM used to make tons of parts for, and this Steve Zielke body was custom painted just for that truck. Here's the original built RB2x (http://www.e-savage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5754). The chassis stuff has long since been sold off.

http://gcmachine.ca/images/rb2xsd001.jpg

The first order of business with this thing was to snip out the Crew Cab part to get the wheelbase down to size. This was SO EASY on this particular body, because the back of the front doors is a vertical straight line, and the exact amount to cut out was the size of the back doors! YAY!! I was speechless when I found out this would work. I've been dying to use this body for something, but it was always way too narrow, and way too long.. so out came the tape lines, calipers for measuring, and scissors.
The body halves were taped tight together outside, then the inside was filled up with a couple of layers of hot glue.. which sticks very well to the FasKolor paints that ZielkeRacing uses for his paint. That was great also! (the body is signed and everything. Been sitting here for 2.5+ years)

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5KE2QoFOG40/UC62XtkvQPI/AAAAAAAAEZ8/8TCYbO9iBFY/s800/DSCF1248.JPG

You can see the remnants of a back seat I found in the bin also hotglued into the insides. And below you can see why. It gives a bit of definition to the interior despite the dark window tinting. Looks better with something inside.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yWYTUTTz-34/UC62YhiyskI/AAAAAAAAEaE/lyWtY7gwFy4/s800/DSCF1249.JPG

You can see there's just a little line on the body all the way around, and it is almost not noticeable at all. I love this look too, the flames etc just worked out very well!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GtCqhfr96U8/UC62h89iV_I/AAAAAAAAEbA/8c4WZHt7rac/s800/DSCF1257.JPG

The body mounts up front and out back using the same 2 button head screws we used on the RB2x. I made up these cute little aluminum receivers for the body screws, and bolted them to the shock towers, front and rear.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6XRRK6Gx--0/UC62bp3CerI/AAAAAAAAEac/3xELKpf0njc/s800/DSCF1252.JPG

Out back, in the box, I wanted to get the body down enough to close in the wheel well opening around the tire. I also wanted to make sure the body didn't appear loose on the chassis when sliding around, so the solution was easy! Slots!! This was so easy.. I needed about 1/8 of an inch drop, and the towers had these little raised corners on it, so I just slotted the box to make the tower poke up a tiny bit. This lowered the body, and also made it supported way out on the box, making it completely solid after it's screwed down! No jiggles here!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8LvcwdaAOAc/UC62i7sFcWI/AAAAAAAAEbI/gMysFYRYalk/s800/DSCF1258.JPG

generis
08-17-2012, 03:36 PM
This car started off as an X-Ray sedan race car. This one is a true in blood FK04 kit car and was raced in our area for years, and was the most winning car anywhere around. I scored it from the ex-race driver who retired from onroad completely. This is one very serious car.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wTfIPcA63XQ/UC62Z49diEI/AAAAAAAAEaM/9mZOC4rg5pA/s800/DSCF1250.JPG

The Battery of choice is currently a little 2s lipo from the locals. Combined with the move-anywhere velcro mounting and the big flat chassis, you can setup the balance and bias SO EASY on these cars! Aaron has an almost identical setup on his, and we have a riot moving the batteries 1/4 inch and seeing the huge difference that can make! So cool! This feeds the FX-R Tekin ESC sitting just above the motor.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HzLtpkFXWxE/UC62dGlphMI/AAAAAAAAEak/jbB2iIo9iHU/s800/DSCF1253.JPG

On the passenger's side, there sits the servo, my fabulous BlueBird 616mg and the RX is stuck to the top of it. I taped down the wires to keep the belts from grabbing everything. Works great!

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vZqK1vjhca8/UC62eRX9HeI/AAAAAAAAEas/sugx_v4LI38/s800/DSCF1254.JPG

Unlike Aaron's brushless monster, I went to the 'bin' and pulled out a NIB Axial Wraith 20t motor, ready to go! That got stuck in there in 5 seconds flat, and bingo! Ready to go! This combo of 2s, Tekin, and Axial closed bell motor runs nice and fast, exceptional wheel speed when needed, smooooooth, and the battery lasts for at least 40 minutes of playing, plus there's ZERO heat at all anywhere. Ever.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SKEyxFU_zK8/UC62f33sQaI/AAAAAAAAEbU/-cnUuRRHY74/s800/DSCF1255.JPG

I take no credit for this next bit of goodness. Aaron did the overdrive pulleys in the back of his x-Ray, and it went so well (plus we had spare parts) that he eventually did mine also! Man, what a change!! You can see the size difference in the drive pullies for front and rear, as well as there's a differing tooth count on the diffs also. Aaron can tell you the ratio change, I forget the whole thing. But I can confirm it's WAY better to slide!!

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xZ-zxQ3NLGs/UC62hLwOQuI/AAAAAAAAEa4/YW1vU6-DbKg/s800/DSCF1256.JPG

generis
08-17-2012, 03:47 PM
So what's that clear thingy on the bottom, you ask? It's a piece of 0.060 inch lexan. I love this stuff! My favorite for fabbing up covers and dirt deflectors, inner fenders, and the list goes on!

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8YEzxirezYw/UC62aiM441I/AAAAAAAAEaU/9oDaQ6Q0Fuk/s800/DSCF1251.JPG

You all know that the onroad or drift stuff loves to pick up little rocks etc, plus the rims are always spitting junk all over the chassis, so here's my way of keeping long life in the belts and protecting the body:

First, this plastic plate is bolted to the chassis for protection primarily. It takes all the hit from the road, bumps, rocks, etc.
Second, it wraps right around under the bodywork from the cab forward. It's a bumper! I love this sort of thing, been doing it for years on different projects. If and when you bump into something, the lexan body barely moves and never wrinkles thanks to the support underneath from the lexan skidplate! On the sides the same applies. Side bumps are looked after by the lexan underbody.
And Third, Rocks. The front of the lexan is bent up and allows the truck to skid OVER bigger rocks and bumps, and protects the body from any impacts that are down low. And in the process, WAY LESS rocks ever get into the chassis and belts! Yay! Thanks to the underbody only going half way back on the truck, if there is a rock that the tires throw up into the chassis, it can get out real easy, because there's chassis holes, and open air out back. It's a great setup!

Here's a look at the front with the lexan underbody barely visible from down low.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RSADbHuWZnc/UC62kaYuM5I/AAAAAAAAEbQ/nRryGoZyidc/s800/DSCF1259.JPG

And one final shot to close it off:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8HBH_YUpBdE/UC5Psd8k4HI/AAAAAAAAEYM/ikCQXCgnFf0/s912/IMAG0742.jpg

AaronCampbell
08-18-2012, 04:28 AM
The over drive isn't much on our cars, it's at a 20% od just using stock (well actually optional) pully sets. When you go from doing 50-50 to this you can notice the difference, not much but it's there. I figured we use what we have available and then as time progresses we move onto a more extreme steering angle, maybe a front one way, and lastly a higher overdrive. For now though just the way they sit they are a blast to drive, plus we don't do much competative stuff, just against each other. Sometimes the smack talk gets worse than what goes on at the track... but all in good fun. Btw my body with be a s15 syilva..

Little Guy
08-18-2012, 05:31 PM
This truck is Beautiful. very clean conversion-- I didn't even notice until I actually looked at the paint and saw the flames. You did well sir, hats off to you.

Did you know that HPI has 2.2 sized rims + drift tires? Some of them would look killer on this truck and it's dubbed out feel. :D

generis
08-19-2012, 07:22 PM
I've been adding slowly to this build..

Today was to stick in the 2 post SuperDuty mirrors, all tucked in. Worked out nice!

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ROoqKAKp78c/UDGYftL94zI/AAAAAAAAEb0/H8YAFA5uQj8/s800/DSCF1263.JPG

I also added some stainless exhaust, duals of course. Love this!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v7PI0Iji50g/UDGYkZ11rmI/AAAAAAAAEcM/4dAZ6tF63wo/s800/DSCF1266.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-oGenuXms9x0/UDGYiwi8a9I/AAAAAAAAEcE/LAvpiO-cdw8/s800/DSCF1265.JPG

Crankbait
08-19-2012, 07:47 PM
Looks great so far!
You did a fantastic job on the body.:biggthumpup:

td-civ
09-06-2012, 01:24 AM
nice job on the body looks cool

LesPaul4x4
09-06-2012, 02:00 PM
you've got a great idea
I wanted to do the same thing with the HPI chassis ....
that of E10 DRIFT and put on the body of the old ford Axial ... but I did not know how to shrink the fender ....:nonono:

94smasher
09-06-2012, 06:31 PM
Awesome rig!! And cheers for the detailed descriptions on it!