GCM Banner
Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 35

Thread: SVT's Budget Honcho Build-off Entry

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2015



    Is it me you're looking for?

    I can see it in your eyes.

    I can see it in your smile.

    Here I am with either a Lionel Richie top 10 list or some Honcho stuff to report.

    Spoiler alert: Endless Love is my #1, agree or be wrong.

    While you try come up with some futile argument for Dancing on the Ceiling, enjoy these pictures:

    Just give up, I'm right. Accept it.

    Anyway, one important discovery from some driving time in the typical East Coast rock, dirt, moss, leaves type trail. The Wildpeak tires, despite the large lug spacing, are terrible in loose terrain. I don't mean "terrible" like they get no traction, I mean "terrible" as they are the most inconsistent tire I have ever used.

    For example, this climb:

    Half the time, the Honcho would walk right up it and not come close to making it up the other half. It seemed like a total crap shoot if the tire would get traction on anything. There is a great advantage in consistency and tires that have total unpredictability when it comes to traction make for a very frustrating experience.

    Other than some pretty pictures, the point of this post is to direct attention back towards this build. My ego needs the constant validation of strangers on the internet in order to function. Like and comment!

    God, that was painful to even write satirically. How do people actually live that way?

    Many boxes are set to be delivered this week and I did test out a subtle mod that shall be covered in the next stage.


  2. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2015


    Greetings and welcome to this special Friday edition of SVT's Honcho budget build extravaganza!


    Yes, I see you are excited and yes, this is clearly better than whatever you are supposed to be doing right now but control yourself. Unrestrained enthusiasm and discretely perusing the internet don't exactly go hand in hand. So grab a chair and some coffee (or scotch, I don't judge) and gather round.

    Before anyone starts in on the "what is taking so long for these updates?" garbage, know that I have been busy working to bring you a better build thread experience. A whole scale garage complete with lighting has been build to provide a pleasant backdrop for your visual intake.

    Also, I switched from cell phone pictures to a fancy ass Sony micro 4/3 camera for higher quality pictures. What have you done for me lately? That's what I thought. So shut your face and be grateful.

    But before we go forward, we must consider the past. Not to respect our ancestors, heritage, or any of that other crap, just to see how much cash we have to blow this time around.

    Phase #4 - $106.01 + $50 = $156.01

    Man, I have been cheap up to this point (that will change, don't worry).

    This week is all about getting the wheels the right direction.

    See what I did there?

    Lucky for anyone doing a budget build these days, there is a huge amount of low cost, high performance servos that are actually pretty good. Seeing how the stock Tactic servo is pretty bad, something that is pretty good would be a huge upgrade.

    My choice for the task:

    This is a JX CLS-12V7346. It has a stylish and durable aluminum case, steel gears, and makes 530 oz of torque at 11.1V.

    Wait, 11.1V? What?

    That's right, this bad boy runs directly off a 3S battery.

    If you didn't believe me, then maybe the gigantic laser etching will convince you.

    I'm have been a big fan of 3S capable servos since installing a Holmes SHV500 in my TRX4 for the power and simplicity. Just remember, you always need a BEC except when you don't need a BEC so use a BEC when you need a BEC but don't use a BEC when you don't have to use a BEC. Got it?

    Unfortunately, a $120 servo doesn't fit the whole "budget" theme of this build. I stumbled across these JX servos a while back and ordered one. Then I waited and waited and waited for Gearbest to get off their collective asses and send the servo to me. A month later, they put my servo in a box then it showed up in my mailbox 2 weeks after that. So here we are in the beginning of May and I am ready to install the servo that was ordered in March.

    But wait, there's more!

    In case you were wondering, the 46kg rating is at 14V. That works out to about 630 oz of torque. Even if the real torque is only 3/4 of that rating, it is still hella strong.

    How much would you pay for all this servo awesomeness? $100? $90? $75? $60? Find out the low, low price after this:

    For those not familiar with 3S capable servos, they use separate leads for power and signal.

    Some quick soldering and I had a power tap installed. JX doesn't include a JST pigtail like Holmes does with their servo but I had one laying around. You could always solder the servo power leads straight to the battery wires but I like connectors here.

    A few screws and the old servo was gone.

    Normally you wouldn't want to meet whoever is replacing you at your job but I don't really care what the stock servo thinks anyway.

    Like the new servo horn? More on that in a minute.

    Has it been a minute?

    OK, I'll tell you.

    So I was planning on using this servo horn from Top Hobby on ebay. They are low profile and not too bulky like a lot of clamping servo horns. Did I mention they are $6 shipped from the US?

    If you think they look familiar, they do.

    But alas, the horn proved to be too low profile as it hit the chassis before coming close to full lock.

    Back to the drawing board.

    So I borrowed a Vanquish servo horn from another truck for some testing. It clears the chassis but hits the panharrd mount quite a bit before full lock. So I trimmed a little off the panhard mount.

    Better but not good enough, the Vanquish horn is just too damn bulky.

    So I grabbed one of these Protek horns.

    Again, hits the chassis like the Top Hobby horn. Why is this so f*$&#!ng complicated!

    Further review shows the Protek arm is just barely hitting the chassis, I may be able to work with this.

    I trimmed about 1mm off the height off the height of the servo mounts to drop the servo.

    Everything was mounted back up.

    And success!

    Between the Protek horn's profile, the trimmed panhard mount, and the lowered servo, everything fits as it should and full steering is achieved. Well, technically there is more available steering but the tires will touch the links at full lock so I don't really need to chase it further.

    Speaking of lowering the steering servo, I now have a convenient transition to the next topic. Thanks, me!

    As you may recall from our tire discussion (or you may not, in which case you may be confused by the following), there was talk about lowering the Honcho.

    Adjusting the preload collars all the way up wasn't enough, the Knight Customs spring cups were intriguing, but then I was inspired. Just mount the shocks on the same screw as the links.

    All it takes is longer screws (M3x25) and 2 minutes to lower the truck significantly. How much? I don't know, I forgot to measure. 8 mm, maybe? I'll go with 8 mm, it sounds close enough.

    Where did this incredibly simple but brilliant bit of information come from?


    I did this on my GCM Skeleton when I installed SCXII axles to get the ride height down. I'm even more wonderful than I though I was.

    As you can see, much lower.

    More lower = more stabler = more gooder.

    It will look better with smaller tires too.

    Did I just tease our next installment?

    I'll gloss over that and get to our tally for this stage.

    JX 12V servo - $53
    Protek 25T servo horn - $11

    Stage #4 total = $64

    Well done me, well done.

    What do we have to work with next week?

    $106.01 + ($50-$64) = $92.01

    I'm incredibly qualified to perform these calculations. Would you believe I have a master's degree in accounting? There is a fancy-ass piece of paper at my house to prove it.

    I would say I hope you enjoyed this installment but I know you did. Stick around for the next amazing installment.

    Literally, stay seated at your computer waiting, furiously pushing F5 in hope of the next post being one refresh away. It is the least you can do.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    It no longer exists.


    So do I need a BEC?

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2015


    Quote Originally Posted by imthatguy View Post
    So do I need a BEC?
    Definitely yes or no, either one.

    Until you find out, the BEC is both required and not required.


  5. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    The Shire


    You are very punny. Thoroughly enjoying this thread, keep it up!

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    every where i walk


    (For your ego)..

    i have just read the entire thread and damn it was worth it...

    im now going to push the subscribe button so that i dont have to constantly hit F5

    If In Doubt Give It A Clout.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2015


    Quote Originally Posted by labrat0013 View Post
    You are very punny. Thoroughly enjoying this thread, keep it up!
    Got to keep my dad joke game strong, my kids will soon be the age to realize how embarrassing I can be.

    Quote Originally Posted by MatthewHughes View Post
    (For your ego)..

    i have just read the entire thread and damn it was worth it...

    im now going to push the subscribe button so that i dont have to constantly hit F5

    Good call on subscribing.

    Pushing F5 for 12 days would have probably led to dehydration and malnourishment.

    So I have an update, it is a boring one but live with it. A lot of money was spent too because there was a lot of it in the budget and I'm impatient.

    Budget Monkey! How much jack do I have to blow?

    Ahh, $92.01 from last week plus $50 for this week for a total of $142.01.

    Now back to your cage until the next post!

    He's an independent contractor so I'm not legally required to treat him with dignity.

    Quick, what's the quickest way to improve performance and spend a lot of money?

    Did you say wheels and tires?

    Did you really?

    Are you actually talking to your screen? You know I can't hear you, right?

    I guess I'll let you weirdos stick around while I talk about everyone's favorite subject. As a big fan of (probably unnecessary) wheel and tire purchasing, this is a hard week for me. There are so many good tires out right now and even more wheels so it is hard to pick just one set. Since this is a budget build, there is only room for one set of wheels and tires whether I like it or not.

    Let's start with wheels, shall we?

    There are an endless supply of wheels that could fit in the budget: plastic beadlocks, stamped steel, Chinese knockoffs, etc. My criteria was something durable, easy to mount, and lightweight which cuts down the options considerably. In the end, $43 was exchanged for goods and/or services in the form of:

    Incision KMC plastic wheels. Stock photo, I forgot to take a picture of the actual wheel. Oops.

    Why these wheels?

    Well, the classic dual beadlock design is easy to mount any tire (a key consideration when I had not yet selected tires), they hold a bead securely, are lightweight, are relatively cheap, are compatible with Locked Up rings for a different look down the road, and the ability to bolt on an aluminum hub eliminates any potential stripped hex issues. What's not to love?

    Oh, they don't weigh enough for you?

    Learn to setup and drive your truck and you don't need to weight your wheels. So go jump in a lake with your 35 lbs of stick on lead.

    As for tires, that was a MT-R of personal preference.

    So clever.

    RC4WD 4.19 Goodyear MT-Rs: a classic badass offroad tire. Something appropriately aggressive for a chopped Tacoma with a tube bed. Would anyone really put that much work into a truck then run all terrains? No, no they wouldn't (I don't care if you did, it doesn't prove my point so keep your mouth shut).

    The MT-Rs come in RC4WD's newest X2S3 compound, which is as good as anything on the market. Any preconceived notions you have about RC4WD tires based on their previous compounds, throw them in the trash with your wheel weights. These are soft, sticky, and include some decent foams. That is a good thing because this week doesn't have money for new foams. Speaking of money, unlike other companies that up the price with their new compounds, RC4WD kept these the same price as their old tires.

    6 screws in the back, 6 in the front and boom.

    Enjoy some pictures.

    And now on the truck.

    Center caps make installing wheels a pain but we all have to make sacrifices for looks. Pain is beauty, right ladies?

    Small tires on lowered truck = win

    So, yeah, that's all I got. Told you it would be a boring installment.

    Want to complain about how it took me 12 days to mount some tires and take pictures? Snarky responses guaranteed!

    Fine, we'll just get to the math.

    Incision wheels - $43
    RC4WD tires - $25x2= $50

    Stage #5 Total = $93

    Next stage, I have:
    $92.01 + ($50-$93) = $49.01

    Better than I though I would do when things were originally planned. Self high-five!

    See you in another 12 days.

    Or more

    Or less, who knows.

    Damn, I hate cliffhang......

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2015


    Yes, I know, "what the hell is taking you so long?" Nice to see you too.

    Its not like I don't want to work on the Honcho, there is just lots of other things I'm supposed to be doing. I made an incredible flourless chocolate cake for my wife's birthday, I built a table, I caught up on some Dateline reruns (spoiler alert: the husband did it): all very important things that unfortunately cut into Honcho time. Well, I got back to work and here I am so let's go.

    You may recall my hugely popular assistant, the budget monkey, from my last post. Well, he's dead. Apparently that happens if you lock animals in cages and don't give them food and water. Oh well, he was weak and left me to do all the work. On a related topic, I am accepting applications for an intern.

    So for phase whatever I'm on, the budget is $49.01 carried over + $50 for this phase = $99.01. I'm not going cheap this time.

    So you know those great mods that add function and improve durability? I'm getting to exactly none of those type this time around. Its all about vanity this week; pure, unadulterated, all-American vanity. Let's get vain!

    Hello there Mr. Honcho Body, so nice to see you. It would be a shame if...

    Someone ripped your eyes off!

    HA! Now you won't see this coming!

    Oh god! The horror!

    Now, you may be wondering why I cut off the Honcho's face like Nicolas Cage did to John Travolta in the very appropriately titled classic, Face/Off. Although my first though was to attach it to my face in order to impersonate the Honcho, I decided to take things in another direction. Also, if I just ruined Face/Off for you, that is what you get for not seeing a move that is 21 years old by now.

    Those on the smarter end of the reader pool probably have already figured out what is going on but for the rest of you:


    A Knight Customs Honcho grill. This particular version is the 2001-2004 stock grill but there is also the option on a couple 1998-2000 grills. I chose the one I liked the best, no deeper reason here.

    At this point, the Knight Customs grill is really a requirement of a Honcho build, it is no longer optional. I'm currently forming some kind of ruling body to preside over all tiny trucks to issue mandates such as this. I'm not saying I have to be president or chairman but at least treasurer. Details are still being worked out.

    For those who aren't familiar, all of Knight Custom's stuff is printed through Shapeways. The grill is made up of the main piece printed in nylon and the lenses printed in acrylic. Straight from Shapeways, the lenses come rather opaque but a few coats of Tamiya X-22 clear makes a big difference.

    The inside of the light buckets was hit with a Molotow chrome paint pen for some more reflectiveness (not sure that is a word) and the lenses were glued on with some Testors non-fogging glue.

    Now when it came to installing the grill, things got interesting. My plan was to glue it in with E6000 for a clean look but I couldn't get the grill to stay aligned in the opening while the glue dried. Every clamp I tried either didn't hold the grill in the right spot or squished the shape of the opening and created terrible, unsightly gaps.

    Eventually I said screw it! Literally, I screwed the grill in and everything was better. The M2.5 cap heads will get replaced by button heads whenever I get around to it.

    See, no Honcho should be allowed out with out one of those grills. It just looks so much better at this point, but I'm not done yet!

    Remember how I said the Incision wheels were compatible with Locked Up rings? Well guess where some more money went.

    A full set of Locked Up Orb rings with some accompanying scale hardware was acquired for this very purpose. The Orb rings are basically the soul made of the Incision plastic wheels because the 6 spoke pattern lines up perfectly with the Orb's design. So very many tiny, tiny screws were installed. Luckily I only have to install them once.

    Wheel done.

    After all the tiny screws were in, it is still only 6 screws to install the ring so that part went quick. Notice the harmony of the ring and wheel patterns, just beautiful.

    While I was at it, I took this opportunity to replace the plastic hubs with some aluminum Incision hubs. The wheels come with #4 hubs but I replaced them with some #3 hubs to narrow things up a bit. No stripped hex problems now or ever.

    Center caps make wheel removal and installation a pain but just look at that.

    How can you say no to that? You can't unless you are a terrible, deeply flawed, irredeemable person. Who knew center caps could bring you to a moment of great personal truth?

    Everything just looks so right together.

    And one more of the grill.

    Man, I love that thing.

    So I spent a bunch of money and gained no performance. Yay for smart purchases!

    How much did I spend anyway?

    What! That's not good.

    Knight Customs grill - $37
    Knight Customs lenses - $13
    Locked Up Orb rings - $24
    Locked Up scale hardware - $28
    Incision hubs - $20

    Total $122

    So for the next stage:
    $49.01 + ($50-$122) = -$22.99

    Well, looks like I'm going to have to get myself DIY-ing for next time. I hope you have enjoyed this installment because I have literally spent all my money for your entertainment. Since I am now poor and on the run from Amain collection agents, you can contribute to this ongoing Honcho effort by sending parts to:

    Cardboard box under a highway overpass
    Somewhere around Raleigh, NC 276 something something

    I look forward to your support if I don't die from dysentery.

    Goodbye for now (and possibly forever but hopefully not).

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    It no longer exists.


    Very nice. Very nice indeed. It's too bad you couldn't get it to work without the screws. Performance is overrated.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2015


    Quote Originally Posted by imthatguy View Post
    Very nice. Very nice indeed. It's too bad you couldn't get it to work without the screws. Performance is overrated.
    It is a shame, my clamp game must be lacking. Screws beat a jacked up grill though.

    I'll get some button head screws, paint them to blend in, and secretly cry on the inside knowing they are still there.

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts