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Thread: D90 Winch Challenge Pickup

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    348

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    Very nice brazing work. The snorkel loop might get hung up on stuff, but it sure looks awesome. What gauge of rod are you using? I'm starting to gather supplies for a brazing setup and I'm always curious what people find useful.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    508

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    a lot of nice ideas

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    148

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    Quote Originally Posted by onetruescooty View Post
    Very nice brazing work. The snorkel loop might get hung up on stuff, but it sure looks awesome. What gauge of rod are you using? I'm starting to gather supplies for a brazing setup and I'm always curious what people find useful.
    This cage is 5/32" steel rod, but I also use 1/8" and 3/16" depending on the end use and the actual size used on similar 1:1 components.



    Quote Originally Posted by pera2008 View Post
    a lot of nice ideas
    Thanks

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    every where i walk
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    60

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    as soon as i saw your inspiration photo i was hooked.

    i have seen it at quite a few land rover shows in the uk (if its not from the uk a guy here has exactly the same)

    Subbed and looking forward to more.
    If In Doubt Give It A Clout.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    148

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    Quote Originally Posted by MatthewHughes View Post
    as soon as i saw your inspiration photo i was hooked.

    i have seen it at quite a few land rover shows in the uk (if its not from the uk a guy here has exactly the same)

    Subbed and looking forward to more.
    Thank you, I am honored.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    148

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    Update 11 – January 18, 2018:

    I am fabricating rock sliders/under armor for project D90 Winch Challenge Pickup, a total of 2 sets will be made, one for myself and the other for a good friend that bought at the same time as me a D90 chassis from Boom Racing.

    The short rods are 1/4” steel and will mount the sliders to the existing crossers that hold the body to the chassis and the long rods are 5/32” steel that are bent using a K&S Mighty Wire Bender, and will be the actual sliders.






    The “armor” consist of automotive body repair sheet metal with a small section bent to form a “L” for stiffness.





    After prepping the material (cutting, bending, etc.), I made temporary welding jigs to accelerate the process and have consistent results between the 4 sliders.

    I decided to MIG weld instead of brazing as the heat is almost instantaneous and very localized, which will not spread into the sheet metal/assembly, thus potentially deforming it like brazing will.

    Jig #1 is to weld the 1/4” mounting rods to the sheet metal.






    Jig #2 is to weld a reinforcement bar that spans the entire length of the under armor, this should prevent the skid from collapsing under impacts.






    Jig #3 is to attach the outer side/step bar.






    I rounded of the leading and trailing edges of the under armour, did a rough cleanup of the welds (further cleanup to be executed prior painting), drilled and threaded some M3 for the mounting.

    The little lip sits about 0.5mm inside the body for a tight, clean look, and the side bars protrudes 6mm from the body.








    D

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Smithfield, RI USA
    Posts
    1,575

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    Gettin' jiggy wid-it.

    Seriously nice metal craftsmanship. Taking your time making jigs makes the process so much easier, and more pleasant.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    148

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    Quote Originally Posted by Small Factory View Post
    Gettin' jiggy wid-it.




    Quote Originally Posted by Small Factory View Post
    Seriously nice metal craftsmanship. Taking your time making jigs makes the process so much easier, and more pleasant.
    Thanks, 10 years of machine shop background and you pickup a thing or two about jigs and the requirement for repeatability.



    D

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    148

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    Update 12 – January 21, 2018:

    To complete the coverage of the chassis of the D90, I made some rear inner fenders out of .090” styrene and painted them flat black just like the front ones.

    Now, with both front and rear inner fenders, combined with the rock slider/under armour, I have pretty good coverage to keep the internals clean when out on the trails.







    D

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    148

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    Update 13 – January 24, 2018:

    Good progress on project D90 Winch Challenge Pickup; I installed all the electronics including custom harnesses everywhere since some of the components were previously used in my Wraith.

    All the components were waterproofed using silicone conformal coating on the printed circuit boards and liquid electrical tape or Plasti Dip on the housings.

    The winch was hardwired to a HeyOk high voltage winch controller, which is programmed into Aux1 of the transmitter, therefore no separate remotes required to operate, and the controller has switchable dual power input: either thru the BEC (7.2V) or direct to the battery for the full 3S when more oomph is required.

    Steering duty is taken care of by a Hitec HS-7954SH servo directly which is powered by a Castle Creation 10A BEC set at 7.2V, motor control is thru a Tekin FXR ESC and the battery plugs were swapped to Dean connectors.

    This ended up being a fairly clean install with the only visible wires being a portion of the winch harness were it loops around the edge of the body before joining the rest of the motor wires which only a small portion of it didn’t fit under the floor of the interior, therefore I had to run it parallel to the inside of the frame rail for a bit.










    Now, I just need to figure out what brushed motor to run on 3S LiPo; so far I tried the Traxxas 550 can 21T, 540 can 45T and 55T. Love the torque of the 21T, but way too fast for the D90, and the 55T has the proper speed, but half the torque of the 21T...

    I might give a call to Holmes Hobbies for a recommendation.

    I re-installed the stock 90mm shocks since I was having rubbing issues on the body with the 4.45” tires. Still has plenty of flex, but will need to find some 3-4mm wide hexes to bring the tires back under the flares. The 80mm Gmade RSD shocks are awesome, but better sized for 4 to 4.25” tires, nothing bigger.











    Next on the list to complete the electronics will be the light kit once the 3mm LED kit I ordered arrive.



    D

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