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Thread: Locked UP's TRX-4

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    74

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    Nice start to this. Yeah, the wheels do look better. I only wished Pro Line took a little more time when designing this body. There are flaws everywhere. Not too many FS Broncos out there. Would've been cool to have a body close to the 1:1.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Texas
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    122

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    Quote Originally Posted by SMFtwstdHICK View Post
    Nice start to this. Yeah, the wheels do look better. I only wished Pro Line took a little more time when designing this body. There are flaws everywhere. Not too many FS Broncos out there. Would've been cool to have a body close to the 1:1.
    Thanks!

    Mine was a 90, so I'm not as familiar with the 81 body this is supposed to represent.
    It's also been 15 years or so since I had it.


    Maybe all the stickers blur things for me too

    .... just curious though, what all do you see in the way of flaws in the body?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    74

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    It's a little too stretched in my opinion.. Also, the rear by the bumper, that rear quarter panel needs to be a little longer behind the rear of the wheel well. And, in front of the rear wheel, that panel is too long. I think if they would've moved up the whole rear fender a bit closer to the door, it would look better. Proportions wouldn't be so off. And, give a little more space between the front fender/truck and bumper.

    I am kind of a Bronco nut. I have a 92 and a 73.

    I won't get started on their 73 Bronco bodies.. loll IMO. The only true to "scale" and true proportion rc body is the Tamiya Bronco body. Unfortunately, the wheel base is too small.

    All of this is my opinion of course. I am glad to see more Broncos getting out there in this Jeep filled RC world. LOL

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    122

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    All good points.

    Looks like they moved the rear wheel wells back to accommodate a longer wheelbase.

    I noticed the back was off a tad under the taillight too. Not indented like the 1:1

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    122

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    Got the wheelbase "corrected".

    This pic really shows off the differences in the back vs the 1:1 we were talking about.







    Details to come...

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    122

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    Oh yes I did.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Texas
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    122

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    I started by cutting the remainder of the lip away form the face with curved lexan body scissors.






    I also cut down the 2 center ridges (DO NOT CUT THE INSIDE FACE RIDGE) but they are of course thicker and much harder on your hands and scissors. So use caution.


    [SIZE=1]- - - Updated - - -[/SIZE]

    Then I mounted a wheel to an axle shaft so I could use a cordless drill as a makeshift lathe. I have an actual lathe... but for a DIY writeup I wanted to do this just like most of you would at home.







    I hit it with 60 grit sand paper that I cupped around it.
    It IS going to get HOT, so use caution.

    Sand the ridges down until your internal rings for RC4WD tires fit.
    If you are using Traxxas or Proline tires, use our internal rings for Traxxas tires.

    Try to not remove more material than necessary ... because it's not necessary.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Texas
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    122

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    Once all 4 are done, slide the internal rings into your tires.


    Ensure the tire is seated correctly on the back side and try to work the internal ring down as much as possible.


    [SIZE=1]- - - Updated - - -[/SIZE]

    Line the rings up with the 6 holes and install all six screws into the wheels BUT ONLY until they make contact with the rings. DO NOT TIGHTEN YET.



    Look between the ring and wheel at the tire bead to make sure it is going between the wheel and inner ring and is not getting pinched by the wheel and beadlock ring. If it gets pinched you could strip out the threads in your wheel. You can poke the tire into place with a small flat head screwdriver.

    Once the tire is seated correctly, start to tighten the screws using a cross pattern and again, do not over tighten them.


    [SIZE=1]- - - Updated - - -[/SIZE]

    Looking between the wheel and ring you should be able to see the ring about to make contact with the wheel.



    When it gets close, by very aware of any increase in resistance.
    Once you feel it, STOP tightening and you are done!





    If you are interested in a full downloadable guide you can print out, we have one available here:
    http://www.lockeduprc.net/instructio...adlock-DIY.pdf

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    266

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    Wow those rims looks awesome with your beadlock rings! I️ am really considering this... your build is coming along very nicely!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    It no longer exists.
    Posts
    10,306

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    Well that’s pretty darn cool. Nice work sir. May have to do this to mine.
    SBG OWNER YOUTUBE AXIAL AMBASSADOR GCM TEAM DRIVER VANQUISH KNIGHT CUSTOMS TEAM

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