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Thread: The Scout - A Class 1 Skeleton TerraMod build

  1. #1
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    Default The Scout - A Class 1 Skeleton TerraMod build

    Back in November '14 Matt was talking about setting up a new Class 1 truck for his 2015 season. It ended up looking like a Skeleton kit was the base as well as the GCM TerraMod axle housings. Chris at GCM got going at it mid November and after a few months we now have a truck! Here's how it came about....

    TerraMod housings, 183 SCX width. CVDs. Aluminum knuckles.



    Skeleton Ultimate TerraMod Combo Kit, including Dinky R/C Cantilever kit for the rear suspension.



    This one is slightly modified, because the TerraMod kit is a 10.6 wheelbase, and the Scout body is actually 11.4, so I stuck the axles on my fancy expensive free wood setup jig thing...


  2. #2
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    These funny little metal things are actually the slider mounts. This is the stuff that suddenly makes me happy!



    You can see what's happening here.... they actually accept a screw right into the tube from the inside of the frame rail and then bend downwards to the actual steel slider.





    These end up really nice and flat. I like. The idea was to create full points metal sliders that ACTUALLY do something and protect the body, but don't stick out all over the place. The result is this:




  3. #3
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    Next was a super low profile steel tube bumper that would get full points, but not intrude with the looks, and also hold the front one way winch properly. The beginnings looked like this:



    The extra long mock up came out with a nice solid mount area for the frame brackets, as well as the winch, so that's great. And 100% steel welded, no brazing or anything with fire. Say NO to fire. Only electrical fire. And MIG wire. And gas. Oh yeah, and it steers like no one's business!



    Winch mounted up: And I added some welded in steel tubes for D rings to mount (or tow straps or whatever) under the tube at the frame mounts. Super solid.




  4. #4
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    The general fit checks turned out nice. I like the way the tires fit under the lid, and it looks right.



    With the body in it's nice and low position the sliders are now barely visible at all. Perfect.



    BUT it's time for a rear bumper also. That was a bit harder, considering I didn't want to clutter up the rear with a double tube bumper, so I went for the classic metal plate unit with a tapered end. Solid steel, and can be bashed or winched or whatever any time you want.. This can't break. Ever.





    The rear tow rings/D hook things are actually solid steel wire that's bent and pushed through drilled holes in the bumper. Then the BACKside of the bumper/wire gets welded in, so there's no way to pull this thing out ever. Never. And the front side stays super nice and clean for visuals. I like this method, and have done it on the Blazers also and it's super tough. Small and understated and strong as ever. You can just yank and hammer on these and they don't budge.


  5. #5
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    Next is the interior...

    It's hard to believe it started with these little styrene tubes slid over the slider mounts, but it did....



    And then a little flat styrene pad....



    And then some more floor plans and stuff...


  6. #6
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    The floor pans turned into inner fenders which turned into firewall which was nice.





    It's kinda neat to see it inside the lid, because it helps me to visualize where to place stuff. Like the inner fender edges, and the seats etc. Plus I had some pictures.... haha



    The floor pan in the back was sort of dictated by the way the frame came up and met the rear canti shocks, so here's what that ended up being...


  7. #7
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    Awaiting more

  8. #8
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    According to the pics of the full size, the rear inner fenders are like a solid box and that's it.. .so that's what I did! It was easy too. I feel like I cheated, but it's IN THE PIC!



    Looks like a great place for the rear seat from Jerry at JC Customs



    The back seat sticks to the floor with 3 rare earth magnets, of course...



    The front seats are also from Jerry, and I shoeGoo'd a delrin plastic post to the bottom to get them off the floor. The bottom of the seat posts got 2 holes to screw them in from the bottom of the floor. Removable, but not by accident. hahaha




  9. #9
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    I started to layout the dash stuff after the front seats had some positioning. Lucky for me, the builder, the dash of an old Scout is flat as a pancake! Yay!!



    According to the pictures this looks about right. Pretty close to a Scout of that era..



    Unfortunately>>>> I forgot the windscreen is more narrow than the door panels on this truck. BOOO. So I had to cut this dash up and make it narrower by 5mm on each side... Dang. Basically all the space between the middle dash grille and the gauge and glovebox got snipped out. In the end it came out OK, just a bit different than I had originally done.



    I added a top lid on it also to make it rest against the front inner fenders and the motor mount as well. Nice and solid.



    and of COURSE it's held in with rare earth magnets, duh. That's the only thing I can find around here, it seems!



    By the way, the dash is all styrene like the rest of the interior stuff, but I used micro aluminum rivets and micro screws as well as 5mm tamiya shims and washers to decorate the dash. I'll explain that later.

  10. #10
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    Nice enough dash, with the Axial steering wheel slightly modified and put in.



    A bit of decoration and trim later, and it turned out pretty nice with colors!


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